Hager Watches has
released their new Professional Series and provided one of each to The Time Bum
for a thorough review. Back in my April preview, I told you
they looked promising. Now that I have them in hand, I am pleased to report
that I was right. The series has four variants: a three hand Commando Professional
and a four hand GMT Traveler, with midnight blue dials and a choice of
stainless or black DLC finishes. They have made it from design concept to
final product largely intact with some minor improvements, resulting in a set
of classically styled divers that are both ruggedly engineered and beautifully
finished. I think they represent a solid value in the sub-$1000 price
bracket.
These watches are intended to be “dress divers” and they
do not skimp on either aspect. The diver part of the equation is obvious from
the specs. The watches are rated for 200 meters water resistance, wear
anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals, and are treated with SuperLuminova
for nighttime and underwater visibility. They are shipped on a sturdy stainless
steel bracelet with a push-button clasp. The Commando has a 120 click,
unidirectional timing bezel, while the GMT has a bidirectional 24 click, 24 hour
bezel that can be used to track a third time zone. In case you forget what
these watches are capable of, they are shipped in “dive tanks” as a
reminder. Still, when you lay eyes on these watches for the first time, you
might momentarily overlook their utility because they look so damn sharp.
The “dress” aspect is immediately apparent, starting
with the interesting variety of surface textures and materials. I like mixed
finishes on a watch. When done properly, the contrast of bright and matte can
enliven a design. The Professionals display this technique to striking effect.
The watch is brushed along the upper surface of the case and along the center
links of the bracelet. The side links, case sides, crown, and bezel are highly
polished, bouncing light along with the glossy black bezel insert. The
resulting play of light is arresting, grabbing your eye even from across a
room. In an interesting twist, the effect is most pronounced on the black
versions. We tend to think of DLC as a stealth finish, but here it is more of a
delicious lacquer gloss like that of a Steinway piano or Balmoral Oxford shoe.
It is even more fun when you get close enough to appreciate the off-angle
distortions in the domed sapphire crystal. First impressions are the most
important, and the Professional Series absolutely nails it.
The case and dial designs are conservative, drawing heavily upon
those of traditional dive watches. It measures 42mm across, 50mm long, and 14mm
thick, which is about standard for a modern mens watch, and makes it easy to
wear, even on smaller wrists like mine. The case is round, flowing into tapered
lugs that curve slightly downward around the wrist. A beveled edge joins the
aforementioned polished sides and brushed top. The coin edged, screw down crown
is positioned at 3 o’clock and is decorated with the twin-bar Hager
“H” logo cast into its head in high relief. It is easy to grip and
operate.
The bezels, on the other hand, were too tight for my taste. A bit of downward pressure at the top of the bezel gets it moving, but the action is extremely firm and there is little surface area to grip. I found them difficult to operate. Once they get rolling, you can appreciate their solid, mechanical feel, but it was all too tough on the fingertips for me. A little relaxation in this department would go a long way.
The dial is also familiar at first blush, with
applied dots and bars for markers and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, along
with sword hands and a lollypop second hand. The GMT adds a red arrowhead to mark
the second time zone. As one might expect from a watch designed by a U.S.
Marine, it is all very buttoned down and squared away. The real joy comes in
examining the details. For starters, the hands and markers are not polished
like those on many other divers, but edged in gloss black. The dial is an inky
midnight blue with a matte finish. In most light it appears as a slate color,
but in sunlight the deep blue tones come forward. The effect is also more
prominent when you pair the watch with blue clothing or straps. SuperLuminova
also adds to the color play, appearing white on the hands and markers, and a
translucent blue on the black bezel. The chapter index and 4:30 date wheel are
both white-on-black, perfectly legible but drawing no undue notice. Text is
tastefully restrained. A properly proportioned Hager brand and logo are up top,
with a small print model name, “automatic,” and water rating printed
down below. Peer at the very fine print at the bottom edge of the dial and you
see another uncommon detail “Hagerstown, Maryland.” This is the home
of Hager Watches and the place of their of final assembly.
Case backs are solid and etched with the Hager brand. Lurking
within, you will find a modified, high beat, automatic movement. The Commando
Professional uses an HRG 52 (Miyota 9015), a widely used hacking, hand winding,
24 jewel movement with a 42 hour power reserve and 28.8k bph oscillation. The
GMT Traveler has the HGR 60 (ETA 2836), a 26 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic with a
40 hour power reserve and an independently adjustable 24 hour GMT hand. The GMT
is set with crown in position 2, rotated in the opposite direction of the date
setting. It can prove tricky to sync local time, GMT time, and date, but if you
follow the setting sequence in the manual, you will find it all makes perfect
sense. I don’t really mind the fact that the three hand unit it hidden, but I
wish we had a window on the GMT movement as the photos on the site show some
lovely perlage.
The bracelet is 22mm wide, tapering to 20mm at the clasp. It is composed of solid links secured by split pins. There is reassuring heft in the piece, and as noted above, it is impeccably finished. The bifold deployant clasp has an integral wet suit extension and operates smoothly, locking with a firm snap, and unlocking with the depression of two buttons positioned on either side to prevent accidental release. The clasp looks the business too, it is about an inch and a half long and signed with the Hager brand, logo, and series designation. My only complaint is the length. There is more than ample room for large wrists, but I could not manage more than a loose fit, even with all of the pinned links removed. In fairness, my 6.5″ circumference wrist is pretty small, and the fit was not sloppy, but rather the sort of loose fit many men prefer. Still, I like my watch snug. A qualified watchmaker should be able to remove one of the pressure fit links without much fuss.
On the wrist, I found the Professional Series
watches easy to wear. The bracelet proved to be too much but it was a snap to
replace with leather. The watch head fit my wrist comfortably and had no
problem finding its way under most shirt cuffs. This is important as the
watches seem tailor made for dark suits. It has undeniably masculine proportions,
and clearly broadcasts its tool watch origins, but it does so with a degree of
polish and refinement that is rare at this price point. The Commando
Professional starts at $600, and the GMT Traveler at $700. DLC adds $100 to the
list price of each. The Bum’s choice? It’s hard to say. The stainless GMT on a
navy blue bracelet would be a knockout with a blue or grey suit, but a black
Commando on the black bracelet would be a knockout with charcoal or black. Both
would pair equally well with jeans or cords for the weekend, and of course any
of them would work with a wetsuit.
If you are looking for a true “all-arounder” that
dresses up without apology, you should have a look at the Hager Professional
Series. Watches may be ordered directly from Hager’s website, but watch nerds in
the Washington, DC metro region can see them up close and personal at Fashion Time in Tysons Corner Center, Dulles Town
Circle, and Potomac Mills.
Pro: Stunning looks, solid specs
Con: Tight bezel
Sum: A dress diver without compromise. The Time Bum approves.
