So what does one do after watching the Discovery Channel’s Shark Week for seven straight days? If you are Time Bum contributor, Nathaniel DeNicola, you compose a comprehensive analysis of what would be the best Shark Week watch, and no, it’s not the Alsta Nautoscaph (too easy!). Enjoy the journey as he takes a deep dive to discover a microbrand dive watch with vintage charm that is schooling us all on threats from the deep.
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| Nope, not this one either, although it does have a great shark. Keep reading! |
The Ultimate Shark Week Watch
Chrissie was just going for a swim. An innocent enough skinny dip with a tipsy summer fling
during the sunset hours on Amity Island. Who doesn’t want to feel that freedom, even briefly, of
running uninhibited down the shoreline and diving into carefree waters?
But two things happened after Chrissie’s last swimin the summer of 1975: wise guys got to
smirk about the life-saving properties of alcohol as Chrissie’s fling, in his drunken stupor,
couldn’t reach the water and tumbled (safely) blacked-out on the beach; and Chrissie’s flailing
grasps at a buoy guaranteed that those waters would never be carefree again.
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| Perhaps the most memorable opening scene in cinematic history: Chrissie Watkins (Susan Backlinie) introduces Jaws in 1975 and changes our view of the ocean forever. Backlinie deserves some retroactive award at this point. |
And so 45 years later we have Shark Week, concluding its 32nd season as the longest-running
cable TV event in history, and for many a clear highlight of the summer. You could argue, in
fact, that Shark Week and its Jaws call-back came at prescient timing during this apocryphal
summer of 2020. That the mayor of Amity Island serves as the perfect allegory for public
officials weighing the benefits of economic preservation versus the imminent threats to public
health. Even the setting of the beach has been a common flashpoint for this debate played out
in real-time.
But we’re not here to talk about all that. We’re here to talk about watches, and specifically
watch pairings. Because sure, “sharks are awesome, watches are awesome.” Now do any of them
go together?
There Once Was A Shark From Nantucket
You might have thought we’d start with a vintage dive watch — and we’ll get there. But there’s
an even earlier connection to consider. If Jawsmarked the beginning of the public’s frenzied
fascination with sharks — and of course it did — there’s a decidedly New England flavor to
these fisherman’s tall tales. Not only was Peter Benchley’s novel based on the shark-crazed
summer of 1916 along North Atlantic beaches, but Steven Spielberg’s movie was filmed in
historic Martha’s Vineyard.
So here are a trio of vintage watches with New England or Northeastern connections from the
era when these stories first came to life.
Now, back in 1916, there was a watch company headquartered just a few hours from Martha’s
Vineyards — the Waltham Watch Company from Waltham, MA — that at the time mostly
produced pocket watches but also manufactured trench watches for soldiers in WWI. These
watches are nowhere near waterproof but at over 100 years old these now-antique timepieces
still hold their own for everyday land wear, including lounging on the beach.
And, fun fact, they are actually young compared to the average Greenland shark swimming out
there in the North Atlantic waters (lifespan 300-500 years!). That’s right, sharks swimming in
these waters today could have also circled laps around The Mayflower.
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| WWI-era Waltham trench watch in a gold case and NATO strap feels right at home on the beaches of Martha’s Vineyard. Photo here taken on the calmer sound-facing shores of Fuller Street Beach. |
There was another New England watch company in the early 1900’s not far from Martha’s
Vineyard located in Waterbury, CT that after iterations as Waterbury Clock Company and
Ingersoll Watch Company went on to become Timex Corp — which in the 1970’s released its
most famous model, the Marlin. Ironically the fishy-sounding Marlin is also not waterproof, but
does offer an absurdly affordable mechanical dress watch; and every watch story deserves a
vintage Timex reference.
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| The Timex Marlin wears naturally with lobster plates – from fine dining to rolls on the beach – and helps you afford those meals too! |
And finally, a vintage Northeastern watch also known to these waters — the delightfully
decorated Bulova Sea King. When first released in 1959 this model actually was intended for
water-resistance (hence the name) but you shouldn’t test that now. No, for today’s wear these
vintage pieces from mostly the mid-60’s through early-70’s offer a sporty, versatile look
packaged in pleasing, lightweight dimensions, and often adorned with that charming whale that
makes you feel like you’re in Nantucket (though Bulova uniquely still has US headquarters in
New York and a case factory in Sag Harbor – some speculate the whale logo was introduced in
1966 in tribute to the 100th anniversary of the Whaling Festival of Sag Harbor).
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| My brother, Ryan, sporting his 1970 Bulova Sea King next to a giant sea anemone! (Or perhaps a cactus…). Even by modern standards this 35 mm case fits naturally – makes you start to understand the 36mm trend. |
The Life Aquatic
Ok, on to the divers! Just as Jawsfirst hooked us on sharks in the 1970s (which we devoured –
line and sinker), it was Jacque Cousteau and his team on the Calypsowho first enchanted us with
the ocean’s wonders of the deep (true to its namesake nymph, Calypso, who ensorcelled
Odysseus on his sea voyage). And it’s no hyperbole to say that the early dive watches were an
essential pairing to Cousteau’s aqualung invention — which allowed him to show us marine life
like never before; including the shark.
And if you can get your hands on Cousteau’s original 1953 diver model that he wore in his first
film, Silent World— therefore an OG of all dive watches — then, of course, the vintage Blancpain
Fifty Fathoms is an ultimate watch for Shark Week or any week at all. But you’d probably need
a silent partner at a silent auction to land this Silent Worldstar.
Of course, Cousteau went on to wear numerous other dive watches, and separately other
companies have their own origin story for why their dive watch was the first to accompany the
emergent SCUBA lifestyle (you can hear the tales echoing now, “Omega… no Panerai… it didn’t
matter until Rolex and Bond”) — all of which spawned the most popular type of modern watch
with more reissues and homages than salt in the ocean. Too many to cover here, particularly at
the luxury price point.
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| Let the original dive watch debate begin— it’s hard to argue with the watch Cousteau paired with his first film “Silent World.” (Photo credit: PBS) |
But there is one watch perfectly placed at a value proposition that still pays tribute to Cousteau
and his maritime legacy, in a way — the VOSTOK Amphibia line originally designed for
Russian aquanauts in the late 1960’s. Wait, but Cousteau was French? Yes, but of course. These
watches were never actually worn by Cousteau and the Calypso crew. They do however have
their own fascinating backstory and come with a modern, affordable, whimsical lineup: from
“SCUBA Dude” to “Zissou Special Addition.” The later, obviously, was worn by Bill Murray and
the Zissou crew in Wes Anderson’s tribute film to Cousteau, The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.
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| The VOSTOK Amphibia Zissou gives you an in-house automatic movement with a rich history and a fun story at right around $100. Easy to understand their cult following — including by my brother, Matthew, who provided his favorite shot here. |
Yum Yum Yellow and Aquamarine
If there is one company to specifically associate with Jacque Cousteau then perhaps it should be
the only company he ever officially endorsed, Doxa. This company and the Doxa sub need no
further introduction here, but it’s worth considering a bit of their legacy beyond popular dive
watch models like the “Sharkhunter,” aptly named to wear during Shark Week.
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| The Doxa Sub 300T packs a ton of color and legacy for its price point (Photo credit: Doxa watch company). |
While difficult to sort out exactly when certain color schemes originated, the Doxa sub deserves
some credit for popularizing the vibrant color schemes we now associate with the dive watch
zeitgeist. And these colors have been incorporated into new microbrands (clearly invested in
the diver model) and some tribute watches that might have ducked under the sub’s radar.
One such watch is the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association watch — released in 2018by Time
Concepts (actually headquartered in California) this robust waterproof quartz watch honors the
100th anniversary of the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association and donates proceeds to its mission.
Hard to imagine a group who thinks more about shark encounters on a daily basis.
Now, interestingly, this specific color scheme may not be ideal for repelling sharks as many
SCUBA videographers have dubbed it “yum yum yellow” for how often sharks seemed
interested in the equipment of that color. Others speculate however that the contrast in colors,
not the color itself, and the electrical impulses from the devices (and generally just having a
foreign object being shoved near their face) are more responsible for sharks’ exploratory bites.
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| Hawaiian Lifeguard Association watch worn in Laguna Beach with surfers and skimboarders. This was before I read all about yum yum yellow… |
The other watch colorway that seems instantly associated with summer is aquamarine, or just
aqua, also popularized by shark-seeking subs like the Doxa line. While there are numerous such
examples, perhaps an under-appreciated one is the 2019 release from Vaer watches of Venice
Beach, CA. This microbrand offers the American-assembled A5 in several colorways, the most
recognizable might be the white dial with faint blue numerals that certainly look aqua when hit
with lume or when catching a patch of shade in the daylight.
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| Vaer American-assembled A5 on aqua Barton silicon strap overlooking the Queen Mary in Long Beach harbor — home to dual horror threats: sharks and ghosts. Now there’s a Sharknadao sequel I’d watch. |
The Dark Seal Returns
Speaking of microbrands, there’s another sea-faring California sport watch worth highlighting
here — with its luring bezel and a catching tale of sharks, seals, and a skiff. When Michael
Seals, owner of Seals Watch Company, released the Dark Seal collectionyou might have
assumed a self-reference; maybe on a bad day? And in fact, that’s close to the truth — but not
how you’d think. As Michael has relayed his sea adventure to me, it’s quite a harrowing story.
Long before he dealt in watches, Michael worked for the Catalina harbor department that
involved clearing seaweed up and down the coast. This work took him out to sea on his
customized 5-horse power skiff where he would encounter all kinds of marine life. Often these
encounters were friendly in nature, as they were with a local harbor seal he came to recognize and regularly feed with frozen fish. But sometimes they were quite the opposite — and no one
is ever truly prepared to come face to face with that dorsal fin piercing the deep blue water, even
from the safety of a boat.
Rather than stick around to see what was connected to that fin, Michael “employed all 5 horses
that boat could offer and headed for the coastline.” Aiding in his retreat was that friendly “dark
seal” who seemingly appeared out of nowhere and distracted the large-finned animal by darting
back and forth under his boat and eventually heading toward the bay.
Now, this is no story of food chains and self-sacrifice. Not only did Michael see his blubbery
friend safely back in the harbor, but he continued to feed him frozen snacks for many years.
After that, how could he not?
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| This picture of the Seals Watch Co. Dark Seal Sport with a rotating bezel set against a National Geographic photo of a mako shark likely represents exactly how Michael felt that day. Every watch deserves a good story. |
Independent from the story (which honestly is enough to catch my attention) there is much to
admire in the Dark Seal line, which has been covered previously on this site. In particular, the
fixed bezel model delivers a unique take on a dressy sport watch (or maybe a sporty dress
watch?) with that captivating brushed bezel that mimics a lure in the right light. This is certainly a good thing to my eye — but much like the yum yum yellow, sharks have been known
to agree.
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| Seals Watch Co. Dark Seal fixed bezel blue dial pictured with Henry Dana’s “Two Years Before The Mast.” Alluring in almost any light. If you enjoy word searches you might find another Catalina connection. |
Shark!
Then, there is an actual Shark watch. If you know the parent company, Freestyle USA, there
isn’t much more that needs to be said. These water-sport watches were designed for California
surfers in the late 1980s and still may be the quintessential late 80’s-early 90’s throwback. They
continue to be offered in those original neon colors which also adds some sentimental value for
many of us who had these as our first ever wristwatch.
Not to mention, they are stellar watches for the water — complete with boogie board/surfboard
style Velcro straps and newer tide models that, well, track the tide. They are also the only
company with a direct collaboration with Shark Week, which adds to their current brand
endorsements from the world’s top female surfers.
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| When my grade school friend Jimmy told me about his Shark watch that he picked up recently on vacation in Hawaii, I went straight to the website in search of my original 1989 version. If this isn’t it, it’s darn close, and wore perfectly when bodysurfing in Del Mar, CA. |
Apex Predators and the Largest Living Thing
You can’t have an essay about Shark Week in 2020 and not mention some sobering statistics. In
the 45 years since Jawsintroduced us to the horrors of a shark attack and police chief Brody
yelled, “smile!” it’s actually been a rather one-sided contest.
You probably know the odds are stacked in our favor. By the numbers (1 in 11.5 million for
attack, 1 in 264 million for fatality) our risk is so low the notion becomes a go-to punchline —
the “more likely to be killed by” game includes random things falling from the sky like coconuts
and air conditioner units (but not sharks caught in a tornado). During the 2014 World Cup
economists calculated that you were, in fact, more likely to be bitten by footballer Luis Suarez
than a shark.
You might not know the other side of the equation — it’s equally absurd. In 2019 humans
killed, by conservative calculations, 100 million sharks. That’s 12,000 per hour. And, okay, but
isn’t the ocean pretty big? Do we really need to go there?
Well, we do. Because there’s another dynamic most people know in general but might not have
internalized in specifics — that is the balance of ecosystems. Notice I didn’t say delicate.
There’s nothing delicate about 200 deaths per minute. No, the decimation of the world’s shark
populations has taken a bite out of another apex being — the world’s largest living thing.
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| It’s almost instinctive that this bleached coral isn’t healthy. We should trust those instincts. (Photo credit: NRDC.org) |
In science, the concept of interdependent ecosystems is best understood as what’s called
“emergence” — and its under emergent threat. When an apex predator goes away it doesn’t just
leave more room for the rest. Instead, it promotes the overgrowth of the mesopredators (mid-level
attackers) which in turn plummets downstream feeders.
So in Australia when overfishing killed off the sharks, the mesopredator snappers became
overgrown, who quieted the parrotfish, who could no longer eat the toxic algae, that then
overtook the Great Barrier Reef. Subsequently, for this and other reasons like warming ocean
currents, in 2017 the Great Barrier Reef was pronounced dead. What was once very recently the
answer to “what is the world’s largest living thing?” is now the poster for toxic, deadly
emergence.
You’re up Humongous Fungus (Armillaria ostoyae).
Ocean Conservation in the Watch Food Chain
All of this is so stay — ocean health in general and shark population dynamics specifically have
become paramount more than ever, and Shark Week offers the perfect summer respite to take
some notice of protecting the beaches and sea animals we all love so much much.
Still, when it comes to selecting a watch you might say, this isn’t the place. What’s wrong with
just buying a watch? Nothing. Absolutely nothing at all. But we’re not talking about any
watches — we’re talking about the Ultimate Shark Week Watch where attention to detail gets
you extra credit.
So how has the watch food chain responded to our global oceanic crisis? (Not for nothing, it
wouldn’t be unprecedented for watches to play a role in responding to world crises. Like World
Wars, for example). Back to the food chain…
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| One model of the Watch Food Chain (in fact the only model I’ve come across). You won’t find many of the watches discussed here on this chart. (Photo credit: private Facebook group) |
At the top of the pyramid, to their credit, the luxury watches have contributed. There are
examples of straps and cases made from recycled plastic (Alpina Seastrong Diver Gyre), of
genuine conservancy partnerships (Breitling Superocean Heritage joined with OceanConservancy) , and awareness campaigns (Doxa with Project Aware) with high profile
spokespersons (the Cousteau family continues a charitable partnership with Doxa). And this is
needed; every bit counts.
But even with a deep dive (come on, I waited for 2,000 words to make that splash), it is
much more common to encounter among these apex brands a limited edition watch with a sea
creature etched on the case back and rather vague references to missions that “explore the
ocean” rather than direct efforts at conservation. When you consider the vast resources
available to these brands, it starts to look more like dipping their toes rather than diving in head
first.
Let’s see how the meso-brands compare.
A true leader, Oris has purposefully navigated its course for reviving the dying coral reefs,
removing the ocean’s plastic waste,and even charted a fresh approach to saving Lake Baikal.
(Much respect if you got that pun). Lake Baikal holds 20% of the world’s fresh water supply, the
largest single collection on earth.
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| The Oris Aquis devoted to conserving freshwater powerhouse Lake Baikal. While this lake is not home to sharks, worldwide there are at least 7 such euryhaline shark species that can swim in both waters. (Photo credit: Oris Watch) |
Now let’s not debate where exactly Seiko falls in the food chain. Agreed, they have as much
heritage as any brand and the Grand Seiko belongs in an upper tier. For this exercise we’re
drawing attention to how much they have done with their “Save The Ocean” Prospex offered at
arathermodest$500range. Notonlydotheyfindroominthisminowybudgettocontributeto
ocean conservation but, like Doxa, they have earned the respect of the Cousteau family and
partnered with Fabian Cousteau’s Ocean Learning Center.
Plus that blue dial!
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| My friend, Jimmy, showing off his Save The Ocean Seiko Prospex and that mesmerizing blue dial. The rivets, intended to mirror the belly of humpback whales, provide a unique azul ombré gradient. |
Bottom of the field, top of the class
Well, if you concede that Seiko gets a little extra credit for donating proceeds on a
budget-friendly watch, you’re in for a surprise breach attack. There are several young,
independent microbrands that make these contributions on similar budgets without the large
corporate safety net (not that there’s anything wrong with that). And one such watch deserves
recognition here.
Lorier, founded by husband and wife team Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega, already have something
of name recognition among the microbrand community. Proof? Their recent Worn & Wound
Limited Edition Gemini chronograph sold out under 60 seconds. That’s enough for me. (And
yes I’m ok citing this example because I was one of the lucky few to land one!).
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| When you get a chronograph you really love you end up timing all sorts of things — like how long it actually takes to make coffee. Made a few pots doing research here. |
Without question, the basis for the success has been broad approval of their high-quality product
at, really, and unbeatable price. But this tantalizing value isn’t just from savvy production deals.
It’s part of a brand ethos that lies at the core of their services.
Both Lauren and Lorenzo have had careers as teachers and know all-too-well the underpaid
works that it entails — and so have ardently made their watches to be accessible to, well, them if
they were buyers. The motto “by teachers, for teachers” may not appear anywhere on their
website, but it may as well.
There’s another feature that currently isn’t highlighted on their website but, at least for Shark
Week, it can be highlighted here. In addition to turning out a well-executed and sought-after
product on a phytoplankton-sized budget, all-the-while keeping their customer’s hard-earned
dollars top of mind, they still find a way to make charitable contributions on the sale of every
watch.
Not limited editions. Not creature-feature case backs. Every watch. (As an aside Lorier
purposefully keeps their case backs blank to encourage custom engraving — a personal touch
throwback that more watches might do well to revisit).
The Ultimate Shark Week Watch
And to ride this wave all the way home, that charitable partner is the Oceana Foundation.That’s a story I want on my wrist.
Specifically for Shark Week we’ll go with the Lorier Neptune, a delightfully charming
vintage-style diver that keeps getting better each new edition. I will be wearing my Series II for
a while; Series III is currently on launch.
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| The Lorier Neptune Series II overlooking the Kennedy Center along the Potomac river. A different type of shark is known to roam these regions. |
Emergence Training
If Chrissie were to make that swim again in 2020 she’d be, literally, a million times more likely
to be wrangled by plastic waste than a squalene predator.
And sure, you can say that such cleanup work isn’t the mission of watches. Then again, it’s not
entirely foreign to watches either. For the better part of 50 years, the watch industry has profited
mightily off the actual act of diving into ocean waters and then selling that vision as an
important archetype. It’s not entirely unreasonable to look to them to protect the waters that
have been so bountiful to them over the years.
For now, during Shark Week, we can recognize that at least a few companies are defining their
role in ocean conservation, and none more substantially that the microbrands like Lorier. They
may have gone into the watch business, but an educator never stops teaching.
There is also, just to mention, a bottom-up dynamic to “emergence” — where novel behaviors
from the lower end of the food chain force meso- and apex- hunters to make their own adaptive
responses. These can ebb and flow like the tide or swell over in a sea change.
So there you have it, the ultimate Shark Week watch — a microbrand dive watch with vintage
charm that is schooling us all on threats from the deep, and providing some timely real-life
lessons. ⬩
