Watch designers find inspiration in many sources, but the sports car has got to be in the top three. Being a bit of a gearhead myself, I approve. What’s the attraction? Maybe it’s the connection between time and speed, maybe it’s the fascination with intricate mechanics, or perhaps it just the fact that watches are cool, cars are cool, and we think if you put them both together, maximum coolness will result. For their Tribute series, Arpiem Watches looked to some of the icons of motorsport and the lives of the cars they drove. Like the man and cars that inspired them, the Tribute racing chronographs are slick, tough, and more than a little flamboyant, like the TJW-2 I sampled for this review.
Arpiem (RPM, get it?) has produced eight variants paying tribute to drivers, teams, and liveries such as Jim Clark’s Team Lotus green and yellow, or Alberto Ascari’s Ferrari red. Each incorporates clever details about its subject into the dial, for example, the blue and white Graham Hill Tribute lists his amazing Triple Crown victory and highlights “5” on the index for his victories at Monaco. The review watch is an Arpiem Tribute TJW-2, which pays tribute to John Wyler whose team famously campaigned Ford GT40s and Porsche 917s under the Gulf Oil banner. I requested this one because, in my mind, few colors evoke motorsports like that iconic blue and orange. (Although, I must say if anyone ever makes a convincing homage to the psychedelic purple and acid green 1970 “Hippie” Porsche 917K, I’ll be all over it.) This watch highlights “24” and lists the three premier 24-hour endurance races of Daytona, Spa, and LeMans in orange text wrapped around the dial’s lower perimeter. These are sort of “Easter Egg” design elements that will intrigue watch enthusiasts and delight racing fans.
Of course, pretty paint doesn’t win races, so we’ll shelve that for the moment and get on with the technical specifications. For the engine, Arpiem chose a Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz; always an excellent choice in my book. This hybrid movement uses a quartz timekeeper mated to a mechanical chronograph module. I find it ideal because it has the satisfyingly solid button action and crisp snap-back reset of a mechanical, with the size, maintenance, and significant cost advantages of a quartz. Setting the second hand motion reveals a smooth 1/5-second sweep instead of the 1-second jump of a more common quartz unit. When shopping for an affordable chronograph, I will choose the MechaQuartz over its conventional quartz rivals, and given the cost difference, even over most entry-level mechanicals.
The Tribute’s polished stainless steel body is 41mm wide with flat sides and a curved top that terminates in rounded, tapered lugs. I particularly like the way the curve of the case flows into the similarly shaped bezel, which is itself an attractive component with its glossy black surface and engraved tachymeter index. A domed sapphire crystal brings the overall thickness to 13.7mm. I did not test the Tribute’s drag coefficient as the Time Bum Labs wind tunnel is still under construction, but it sure looks streamlined to me.
While I found the watch sat well on my 6.75″ wrist, the strap affected overall wearability. Now, I need to tell you upfront that I have little love for most deployant clasps. With few exceptions (like the one on my Heuer Monaco), they are awkward to use and add unnecessary bulk. I had the same gripes about the Arpiem’s. It looks sharp and I know deployant fans will tell me I’m crazy but I did not enjoy wearing it. Similarly, I felt the 20mm matte black leather strap was a missed opportunity. It is nicely finished, lightly padded, and suits the lines of the case, but that padding meant the shallow rally perforations were strictly for show, not ventilation. But this is an easy fix. A pinch of the quick-release pins and I had a slimmer rally strap from my collection in place.
The polished crown and buttons are sufficiently sealed for 100m water resistance, offering more than adequate protection for trackside activities and even speedboat racing if you are so inclined. A coin edge and a sensible size make for easy operation and it is decorated with the Arpiem “A.” As mentioned above, the buttons are a joy to use, and the color band on the trigger button is a nifty touch.
Let’s turn our attention back to the dial as there is a lot of fun stuff to take in. It’s a sandwich dial, black on top revealing the blue and orange Gulf stripes beneath. When you catch a glimpse of the cross-section you will notice that is orange as well. I was worried that the dashboard style 60-minute and 24-hour sub dials would be difficult to read due to their flat bottoms but hash marks in the lower half obviate this issue. I love the way the orange needles pop against the muted blue background. Indeed, just about every element on the dial (indexes, raised markers, text) is either sky blue, orange, or black. There is refreshingly little white. That only pops out on the date wheel (a porthole that resembles a racer’s number plate) and the lume fill in the black hands. It is a color scheme that stays true to its inspiration and works remarkably well. My only criticism of the dial is the lume, as there just isn’t enough of it and that is the drawback to keeping white off the dial. You get a bit on the hands, but that’s is it. Pretty face; weak headlights. BGW9 in the bezel should have remedied this problem, albeit at a price.
Speaking of price, the Arpiem Tribute sells for €279 (about $338 US) at Brickyardstore.com, which is quite reasonable. The Tribute is a fun watch. I had a couple of quibbles (strap and lume) but neither blunted my enjoyment. If you are looking for a racing chronograph and aren’t afraid of a pop of color, I recommend you check it out.
