I don’t think it’s a stretch to say that Marvin Menke of Hemel has a thing for pilot’s watches. Sure, the brand has turned out some excellent field watches and divers, but to my eye, its most outstanding prices have been from the military aviation inspired HF Series. For today’s review, I’ve got the new Airfoil mechanical Chronograph and it is a stunner.
I’ve seen the steady evolution of the this series as Marvin has tinkered with the design such that at any given time, you will find about a dozen HF models with distinctive dials, bezels, movements (including quartz and at least three different automatics), straps, and even cases. Each has its own character but all share the same design DNA, drawing heavily on jet-age icons like Dodane Type XX. The watch is equipped with a double-domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal, and is good for 100m water resistance.
The Airfoil uses the most recent iteration of the HF case, which was developed for the Air League Chronograph, itself an excellent watch that I am happy to own, but also a sold out limited edition so I won’t tease you with a review. Like the Air League, the Airfoil uses a stainless steel case that is 42mm wide, 49mm long, and 13.8mm thick with 22mm between the lugs. These are hearty dimensions to be sure, yet it does not feel at all bulky, even on my 6.75” wrist. Unlike other HFs, the Airfoil eschews a pronounced diamond crown for one that is broad and flat. This, along with a polished finish all around and pronounced bevel along the outer edges of the tapered lugs helps to mask the Airfoil’s size while also making it one of the dressier pieces in the line.
I must admit that while I love the way the slimmer crown looks, I found it could be tricky to wind – and wind it you will because the Airfoil contains a SeaGull ST19 hand-winding chronograph movement. I have always had a soft spot for the ST19, an old-school Swiss Venus movement sold to SeaGull in 1960 and produced in China ever since. A well-sorted ST19 is a joy to own and as you can see through the display case back, quite pretty too. Indeed, I’ve become rather blasé about exhibition windows as most movements used in the microbrand market are nothing special to look at, but I will always opt for a view of the ST19.
You can buy an Airfoil in Black or Navy, but I asked to sample the Marvin let me try the full lume Ivory version. The C3 SuperLuminova is a rich cream color with a red undertone that makes it far more appealing to me than the more common yellow. Black markers and sub dials stand in sharp contrast, the white handset, not so much. While an excellent choice on the darker dials, the white is not immediately visible against the cream dial. It is still readable, mind you, but it lacks the at-a glance legibility you expect from a military style watch – a heritage underscored by the broad arrow marking in the lower dial that harkens back to those on watches issued by the British Ministry of Defense.
As you might have guessed, night time visibility is outstanding. The C3 fairly explodes off the dial and the light color of the handset makes zero difference. Is the glossy ceramic, 120-click bezel lumed too? You betcha. It’s action is perfect, by the way.
It was interesting to compare the Airfoil side-by-sidewith it’s Air League sibling. Even though they share the same case, the Air League seems smaller. I chalk this up to the dial designs. Notice how the Air League’s more complex tachymeter index pushes the markers closer to the center and all the numbers save the 12 and 6 are cut off by the sub dials, making the dial appear smaller. In contrast, the Airfoil’s simpler index and smaller secondary numbers open up the dial so it looks one size larger than the Air League. This is not a matter of being better than the other as both are equally charming. Rather, I find it fascinating the way that seemingly small design choices can so radically change our perceptions of size and space.
The strap is another element dressed up on this model. All HFs have had quality leather straps, but the Airfoil’s is far more tailored than the riveted ones on other versions. The smooth, caramel colored leather has a touch of pull-up effect. The strap is lightly padded, stitched with cream thread, and secured with a twice-signed 20mm buckle.
Overall, I find little to fault with the Airfoil. It is an attractive, practical watch, with one of the more appealing affordable movements, and it won’t look out of place if you pair it with a blazer. The Airfoil is available directly from HemelHemel for $499.
