Once again, I find myself with a Bulova Oceanographer “Devil Diver” on my desk. Bulova first produced this model from 1968-1972. Its compact case, gem-set markers, and of course, the infamous 666ft depth rating on its dial have made it a favorite among vintage collectors. In 2018 Bulova reissued the iconic model as a limited edition and have since produced several variations of size (up to 44mm!) and color. Today, I have the most recent edition in for review, an orange, 41mm 96B350.
While I don’t have a vintage Devil Diver in my collection, I did have the chance to review an original Oceanographer V in 2018. It was well preserved aside from some flaky bezel paint, and utterly charming. The new version is remarkably faithful to its forebearer, but not an identical clone. Let’s dive in. After all, the devil is in the details.
It’s no secret that men’s watches have grown over the years and while some of the “mine’s bigger” madness is now behind us, case sizes do tend to be a size or two larger than they were 50 years ago. The 96B350 is a tad bigger than its ancestor but gets the proportions right. The polished 41mm case is just 1mm wider than the vintage piece I reviewed and retains a similar tapered barrel shape and short lugs that keep the overall length to 45mm. At 14.5mm thick, it is also 1mm thicker. It has a more stout look overall; the case does not curve quite as radically as the old-timer’s, leaving a broad edge on either side of the case.
I noticed two significant differences between the vintage watch and the new model. First, the older Snorkels had their crowns channeled deep into the case, allowing only about half of their height to protrude. On this latest one, the crown is barely recessed. That is a bit of a disappointment because I really like the way the old-timer’s crown nestled in, keeping the lines clean. On the upside, the crown looks just like it should, raised “Bulova” and all. Why not tuck it into the case? I suspect because the larger dial made it impossible to do so. The old one had some room on the sides but on the new model, the bezel goes right to the edge of the case.
I found the Devil Diver worked quite well on my 6.75″ wrist. When compared to the original, it is bigger, beefier, and feels more modern overall. I kind of miss the more organic shape of the vintage piece but that doesn’t make to new one less appealing, just different. One welcome throwback is the double-domed box crystal rising proudly atop the case. It captures just the right feel and being sapphire, it will handle all but the most tooth-rattling impacts. This one also contains a date magnification lens. I’m not generally a fan of such things as remind me of glass warts and often make the date harder to read from any angle short of dead-on, but this one is on the underside, not at all warty, and works admirably well.
The dial’s layout, typeface, and decoration are all reassuringly familiar. Applied Bulova logo? Check. Crosshairs? Check. “Snorkel” and “666ft?” Check and check. Those outstanding translucent cylindrical markers make a comeback and the world is better for it. I once lamented that the dead luminous paint on most vintage pieces meant I couldn’t see how they looked in their bright and glowy heyday. Now, I can. Bulova did not spare the lume on the Oceanographer and it pops to life when the lights get low.
Squared hands also recall the Oceanographers of old. The minute hand stretches to the index but that hour hand is almost comically stubby. Were this a new design, I might take the designers to task for it but it isn’t new and long hands on a Snorkel reissue would be a travesty.
Aside from the modest increase in size, the biggest change is the color. I offer this observation with the caveat that I did not have the chance to appreciate a new orange Oceanographer back its day because I was a toddler. The only ones I have seen were well over 40 years old, so those dials may very well have changed, but they were a bright tangerine color, lighter in tint, and with a touch more yellow than the fiery red-orange of the review model. Don’t get me wrong, it is a perfectly lovely color, just not at all what I had expected having experienced an early 70s Oceanographer V.
The bezel too evokes Devil Diver heritage, most notably in its two-tone inlay. The one on the vintage Oceanographer I reviewed had suffered from age, losing most of the white paint that once distinguished the first quadrant. The new one is of course, new, and wears an orange sector that matches the dial. Materials have been upgraded since 1970 and Bulova now uses modern acrylic instead of resin. One would expect that it should last longer and better resist cracking and crazing. Bezel action was perfect, offering tight, crisp snaps without undue force or weak wobble.
Bulova currently offers four versions of the Oceanographer. The Green, Navy/Orange, and Black/Red come on bracelets while the Orange arrives on a rubber strap. Rubber is not often my first choice and yet I confess to liking this one. A cross-hatch pattern and stitching lend it a more finished appearance than most utilitarian dive straps. It is suitably pliable and ribbed on the underside. While you are back there, notice the way it has been thoughtfully notched at the spring bars, thus enabling you to remove and replace it without squeezing your strap tool between an uncooperative block of rubber and the scratchable lugs. Surprisingly, this is a 19mm strap. It is not a common size on new watches, but it once was, and judging from the inventory of my favorite online shops, it is a size that has apparently been rediscovered by many strap makers in recent years. The strap tapers to a signed, 18mm buckle.
On the flip side, it’s all business – just a simple solid case back with minimal engraving. Behind it, beats a 21-jewel, 21.6k bph Miyota 821D automatic, a variant in the trusty 8200 series.
When I last featured an Oceanographer reissue, it was a limited run of 666 pieces, equipped with Swiss Sellita, and it cost $1500. This one is $750, or $795 on a bracelet. That is a huge cut and one that I will happily accept as it moves the Devil Diver closer to the thrifty Bum’s preferred range.
I was happy to see Bulova dig this one out of the archives in 2018, and equally pleased to see it today. In many ways, the 96B350 is more of a faithful homage to the first Devil Diver than an outright clone and that is fine by me. The Bulova Oceanographer is a fine modern dive watch with a generous dollop of vintage charm. You can find it at your preferred authorized dealer or directly from Bulova.com.
