It’s time for another review of a watch that popped up on my Instagram feed: the Kuoe Old Smith. Lately, IG has been a bit of a revolving door of the same watches: micros I’m aware of, independents I drool over but can’t afford, vintage pieces without appeal (that I also can’t afford). So it’s even harder for a watch to catch my eye. But something about the Kuoe Old Smith did just that.
Kuoe is a Japanese brand out of Kyoto, founded in 2020 but conceived nearly 10 years prior. The brand seeks to recapture the elegance and simplicity embodied by watches from the 1940s to 1970s. The brand now has three models, the Old Smith 90-001 and 90-002 (reviewed herein), and the recently released Holborn. None of the models exceeds 35mm, staying true to their vintage inspiration.
Not only the case size and the domed crystal, but the dial, too, declares that the Kuoe Old Smith is a vintage-inspired watch. In fact, aside from the screw-down crown and the bright New Watch shine, you could be forgiven for thinking it is a vintage watch.
Kuoe Old Smith Specs | |||
Case Diameter: | 35mm | Crystal: | Mineral glass |
Case Thickness: | 12mm | Lume: | Swiss "SO-2" |
Lug-to-Lug: | 42mm | Strap/Bracelet: | NATO |
Lug Width: | 18mm | Movement: | Seiko NH35A |
Water Resistance: | 100m | Price: | $278 |
The case is really nothing to get too hyped about. Polished all over. Branded crown. Big vintage-style dome. The small dimensions and curved lugs mean it’ll be at home on all but the largest wrists (which may make it look a bit too dainty). While my wheelhouse is definitely 38mm-42mm, I find a certain charm in watches smaller than that, which adds a bit to the wearing experience. Although not remarkable, there’s also nothing to complain about here. And it lets the dial do all the talking.
There’s more polish on this side.
The big sword hands with their polished edges are great and make telling the time easy, and I like how the lume, instead of seeming affectedly vintage, seems intentionally orange for the sake of color. The biggest flaw of the watch is the ho-hum cutout date window with a stark white date wheel. I don’t expect much at this price point, but a black line frame may have been nice? That said, it’s just fine. I’m not upset.
My favorite part of the dial is the super thick, seemingly applied Arabic numerals. They add a great depth to the dial, something missing on many vintage (and modern) watches, and it’s a great way to bring a bit of oomph to an otherwise classically styled dial. In addition to the ivory dial here, the Old Smith is available in blue, green, and black.
You can really see the subtle dial texture here, especially as it pushes against the dial text. You can just as easily see the lack of refinement on the chapter ring; at this price, macro-visible imperfections should be given a pass. And isn’t there something quaint about “Japan Made” instead of “Made in Japan?”
Two things often suffer when we start dealing with more affordable watches. The first is case finishing. The second is lume. And the Kuoe Old Smith is no exception to this rule. When I asked, I was only told the lume is Swiss and “SO-2.” I’ve never heard of that but based on the results, we aren’t dealing with a Super-LumiNova equivalent here. Indulge me, though: the lume is about as bright as one might expect on the vintage watches from which the Kuoe takes its inspiration–so maybe it’s intentional! (It’s probably not.)
The Kuoe Old Smith comes with two nylon NATO straps. Like the case, they’re no-frills. One feature I do like is the lack of a floating keeper, which means not having to tuck the tail in repeatedly throughout the day.
Thank goodness I had an 18mm strap available. It’s not a popular width, given the larger sizes of modern timepieces. But my loose formula for acceptable lug width is L=[1/2(C)], where L is lug width, and C is case diameter. With a 35mm case diameter, you’re left at 17.5mm, which rounds up to 18mm. (If you want to know what case diameters work with what lug widths, it’s C=2L+/-2; 18mm lugs work well on cases sized from 34mm to 38mm.)
The name of the game for Kuoe is charm. The vintage styling and sizing really work here, and the watch is easy to wear. With an automatic, hacking Seiko NH35A movement, you know it’ll be reliable and easy to service. For less than $300, you could certainly do a lot worse, and I don’t know how much better you could do, especially if you dig the smaller size. For the smaller wristed of you, this watch will be an instant hit. If you’re interested in checking out the brand or snagging your own Old Smith, head over to the Kuoe website.
