Nodus Retrospect III

Ok #watchfam, I have a confession to make.

When Rolex announced in 2020 that the classic Submariner would undergo the most minuscule of changes — 1 mm increase in case dimension — and the entire watch community fawned over the courage, the revolution, the excitement… I gave an eye-roll that would make Tina Fey jealous.  Seriously, it’s 1 millimeter.

But here as I reviewed the Nodus Retrospect III with a bulked-up 42 mm girth, I have to admit I was both enthusiastic and apprehensive at how a few minor tweaks might change one of my favorite microbrand models.  After a week on the wrist I’m happy to report that these modest advances do offer sizable returns — whether you’re a weekday desk-diver timing Zooms calls or weekend duck-diver targeting that perfect wave.

By now Nodus has come to populate many “best of” micro lists both in the United States and abroad (including Bum’s Top Watches of 2020) — but for the uninitiated: Nodus watches are assembled and regulated in Los Angeles, California led by two-man duo Wes Kwok and Cullen Chen.  They can frequently be found traveling the world pub to pub meeting with customers and other enthusiasts, or talking about their favorite whiskey and watches on their podcast “Long Roads.”

The dive watch-oriented company has churned out an impressive lineup of submersible stars including the Contrail, Avalon, and most recently the Sector series.  Given this considerably high batting average on dive watch models, it’s all the more noteworthy that the Retrospect remains its flagship.

And I think you can see why.

In a class of watches as saturated as divers, the Retrospect sharpens its appeal with well-executed sandwich markers, a sunken treasure date window precisely matched to a sunburst dial, and for additional depth a concave bezel that lures you into a delightfully juxtaposed domed sapphire crystal.

Now for confession #2: I have been an avid fan of the early Retrospect models. My whole family is really.  When my brothers and I get together, with hundreds of watches in our cumulative collections, it’s not uncommon that we have inadvertently arrived at wrist-check matching (much to a mother’s delight).

I mention this because it comes with some unavoidable bias toward liking the watch but also some finely-tuned expectations (and potential nitpicks) that I think only a long-time owner shares.

So this review will speak to three audiences:

1. those who want to compare the Retrospect models to see if this new entry offers a substantial upgrade in terms of wearability or proportions (some do really want > 40 mm, totally get it)
2. those targeting a rad, colorful sunburst dial — perhaps ready for an endless summer
3. those looking for a modern heir-apparent to the iconic orange diver

We’ll take these in order so feel free to skip ahead.

In comparing the RII (blue) and the RIII (orange), on first glance you may not “nodus” any difference.  Ok, got that out of the way.  The head-on presentation in-person matches what you see here — pretty similar.  In fact, the RIII case is slightly smaller (40 mm down from 40.5 mm) but the beefed-up bezel now overhangs at 42 mm (can’t see the crown, can you Russ?).  This is a subtle change, scarcely distinguishable visually, that adds substantial improvement in bezel grip to take advantage of all 120 clicks.

If we zoom in the lugs tell an important part of this revamped story: the lug-to-lug dimension now sits at 48 mm (down from 49 mm) and also includes chamfers (look really closely) both of which do modestly improve wrist comfort.

Pan back to the outer view and you’ll notice that the RIII presents a color-matched chapter ring to create a more uniform look compared to the RII’s exposed metallic rehaut.  A minor point, but as an RII owner this did always stand out to me as an “acceptable quirk” whereas the RIII offers a pleasant surprise at the right angle.

Edge-on we find some of the most noticeable differences: first, the RIII’s brushed surfaces are gorgeous and look like they should have been there all along.  Chamfers stand out too.  The crown is taller at 7.5 mm up from 7.0 mm but actually sits more discretely under the bezel overhang.  Speaking of taller, the RIII grew 1 mm to 13.9 mm and you can detect it on the wrist.  It’s not distracting, but it does feel a bit heavier and becomes slightly harder to wear with a sleeve.

Now I’d agree with the overall watch-wisdom that shortened lug-to-lug distance and chamfers offset a height difference or other contributors to large wrist presence — but specific to the RIII, I found the bracelet to be the most substantial enhancement in wearability.  And what an upgrade!

You can see the 22 mm to 18 mm taper remains the same on brushed stainless steel H-links that slink into a button-release clasp.  The RIII (right) clasp is slightly shorter adding some additional comfort (ignore the bruises on the RII, I wear it a lot), but the real improvement comes in the next shot.

The RIII links (bottom) come in shorter and thinner and I can’t emphasize how much of a difference this makes on the wrist.  If this becomes a signature 2021 microbrand trend — also see the GM Lang Trailseeker review — it’s one of the most welcome enrichments to this burgeoning class.  Speaking of favorite trends: the bracelet also comes on a quick-release clasp.  Your fingers will thank you.

The Nodus blog goes into fine detail on a few other changes so feel free to peruse.  Of note, I completely agree that the heightened dome reduces reflection in the RIII (pictured throughout).  For review purposes, I’ve highlighted updates that were most pertinent to wearability and in-person aesthetics.

Now onto part II: that tantalizing clockwork orange.

If you’re like many watch collectors or enthusiasts you have a few checklist items: a GMT, something dressy, maybe a beat-it-up / do-it-all watch.  This RIII Flare Orange model makes a strong case to add at least one orange dial to that list.

Words won’t do justice to the torrent of Titian time-checks so I’ll simply show you as many shades as possible.  And the funny thing about wearing a watch with this much firepower, you start noticing orange popping up everywhere you look.

It races with Camaro’s and dashes Bloody Mary’s.  It slices and dices sweet potatoes & carrots, and is clinically proven to enhance your pool days (both convenient uses of the timing bezel, btw).  It calls to LA natives from lodge level at Dodger Stadium, “It’s time for Dodger baseball…”, and recalls hoop dream buzzer-beaters from waaaay downtown.  It finds seeds only recently sleeping, then stabs with the flash of neon light.  Listen closely and it hums the cicada’s song taking flight in DC (can’t believe I did this?).

You even notice accents on the dial — like this zesty citrus peel that frequently spices up a casual wrist check.  To be honest this squeeze of lemon was a personal favorite and likely the secret ingredient in distinguishing it from so many other orange faces.

Which brings us part III: where does the Flare Orange sit among the plethora of iconoclast orange divers?

Now there’s simply no way to match the legacy of a brand like Doxa, with their Jacques Cousteau wrist checks and genuine claim as OG of the OD (orange dial).  Likewise, Bulova owns rights to one of the most daring fire orange dials tuned to devilish depths of 666 feet.

So if you’re looking for brand buoyancy it’s hard to beat these two tangerine trailblazers.  For what it’s worth — each also offers a solid value proposition, especially the Bum-approved Bulova.

 

 

 

But legacy isn’t the micro’s game.  Not yet, at least.

No, the micros excel at infusing horology heritage with a jolt of innovation, modernity, and dare we say it improvement.  And here I think the Flare Orange hits its elders with some legit burns.

For one, if you prefer the ever-changing rapture of a sunburst dial, there’s no comparison between the lava-to-lemon looks of the Nodus and its plain but palatable predecessors.  By modern standards, the 6 o’clock color-matched date window makes that 3 o’clock “white block” look, wait for it… dated.  For good measure — while there’s great appeal for applied indices in a dressier watch — the sandwich dial seems perfectly paired with a diver; as if you can feel the water weight somatically signed where the marks lay dinted.

And for the ultimate test: how does the Flare fare in the wild?

Well, swimmingly.  I took this on several trips into the ocean including riding waves in the Pacific (first shot) and it held up with snug wrist presence and clear, inviting legibility.  There’s something about the bright orange dial that simply belongs in the water.

And for the grand finale — once you’re finished splashing around this dive watch makes a worthy sunset companion.  Somehow it begins to glow just as the light around dims to dusk (unedited photo).

If you always wanted a Retrospect but had somehow missed out the RIII provides all of the prior touchstones that made this model the brand’s flagship, plus a few bonus features.  For those eager to catch this at a more muscular 42 mm you will certainly approve of the stout wrist presence which comes well-balanced with comfort enhancements, particularly that upgraded bracelet.

The Nodus Retrospect III is currently available for order at the same compelling value as its predecessors, $475.  It’s offered in the attractive original colorways — and newcomer Flare Orange feels like an instant classic.