Today, I’m reviewing a prototype Bremoir Lexington, a lovely dress watch that will launch later this month. But first, a brief history lesson.
The 1918 influenza pandemic infected about a third of the world population, killed tens of millions, and put normal life on hold as people retreated from gatherings and commerce. By the summer of 1920, people were ready to cut loose, and so began the Roaring 20’s. Sound familiar? It should. Like clockwork, every plague is followed by a flurry of activity manifested in every human endeavor including business, politics, society, and the arts. Art Deco is arguably the most recognizable legacy of the 1920s. The movement was a radical break from traditional design, embracing modernism, cubism, streamlining, and new materials to create an exciting, luxuriant new aesthetic.
Bremoir has revisited the streamline moderne style in its debut model just in time for the end of the latest plague and the beginning of a new time to roar. Fittingly, it is a dress-sport watch, although I’d place it closer to the dress category. (Remember dressing up and going to nice places? God, I can’t wait to do that again!) Water resistance is a respectable 50m. It may not be dive-worthy, but it will certainly survive if you fall into a swimming pool while dancing the Charleston. The stainless steel tonneau case measures 39mm wide, 48mm long, and 11mm thick to its flat, AR-coated, sapphire crystal. This would have been huge in the 1920s but is right on target for the 2020s, and for my 6.75″ wrist. Please note that this watch is a prototype and one that has seen some use to boot. Production models may be slightly altered and certainly blemish-free.
A combination of light, straight brushing, and mirror polishing highlights the crisp angles that dominate the case. Your eye will likely zero in on that fabulous stepped bezel, but also take note of that broad, tapered bevel that travels lug-to-lug, nearly vanishing at the midpoint. Lovely.
The crown is particularly well-executed. It’s polished, coin-edged, and while it is unsigned, the pointed cap in the recessed head finishes it nicely without the need for additional decoration. Most importantly, it’s flat. I’m all for ample width on a crown, but I have little use for one that sticks out like a wart unless it is designed for a burly tool watch. For the clean lines and elegant design brief of the Lexington, this one is ideal.
Bremoir will offer four Lexington dial variants: black/silver, blue/silver, blue/copper, and brown/copper. The review sample is the last one, which will be known as the Cohiba. If I had been choosing my sample based on photos alone, I probably would have requested the tuxedo black/silver, and while I am surer it is gorgeous, I would have missed out on this gem. The brown is dark, going from a luscious chocolate to an inky espresso depending on the light. Its warmth complements the circular brushed copper inset in a way that would have been lost had it been black.
This is an elegant dial. The markers and hands are applied, faceted, and polished, ending in chiseled points over printed triangles, forming arrowheads. The minute track is comprised of tiny, squared u-shapes. I love the applied cardinal numbers; they are thick, sharp, and elegantly rendered in a period-correct typeface. Speaking of typeface, Bremoir wisely went fine, tall, and slender on the brand’s logo, so it is identifiably Art Deco, but still easily legible. All of these details are cribbed from features on the Chrysler Building, perhaps the greatest icon of the era.
Now comes the time when I must test the Lexington in the dark, and of course, being a dress watch there is no– Wait a minute… Hot Diggity! Is that lume I see? It is! Legitimate, useful applications of Swiss SuperLuminova on the hands and triangle markers. If that ain’t the cat’s pajamas, I don’t know what is.
Around back, you will get a look at the movement, a 28.8k bph STP-1-11 that is nicely finished and adorned with a custom rotor. Surrounding the exhibition window is a polished frame surrounds the exhibition window. The usual specs and serial numbers are engraved here, but once again, Bremoir has incorporated period typography.
Bremoir will ship the Lexington on a navy suede with copper stitching. It is made by Delugs, one of my favorite strap makers, and as such is meticulously tailored. It incorporates quick-release pins, a stamped lining, and tapers to an 18mm bespoke buckle that matches the stepped bezel. It’s the bee’s knees and the perfect pairing with brown, copper, and steel.
There may be a second, optional strap offered as well. This will be a high-quality, two-piece, navy nylon strap featuring metal keepers, quick-release pins, and a 20mm Bremoir buckle. I believe this one is intended to be for the Lexington’s sporty side, but it just doesn’t do it for me. To my eyes, it is just too utilitarian. I’d likely use the supplied suede strap for more casual wear and then order another 20-18mm navy alligator strap from Delugs for formal wear, but it’s nice to have options.
I got to see the prototype packaging for the Lexington. An embossed, zippered case holds the watch and its papers along with a gold-printed portfolio containing vintage-inspired postcards. It’s an impressive kit that really adds to the overall character of the piece.
Bremoir Lexington launches in late July with deliveries in August. The price $985 and orders placed in the 4-week pre-sale period will get 10% off. It’s not cheap, but it buys you one swell watch and that’s no flim-flam. Do you agree? Have you had enough of me trying to speak like a character in a Fred Astaire film? Then I recommend you stop reading and head over to Bremoir.com to sign up for alerts. You won’t want to miss it.
