The Montmartre MW1 was not quite what I expected. I had seen the cushion-shaped diver on Instagram, and while it looked quite nice, I just assumed it was yet another variation on the Panerai-style case. It wasn’t until they reached out for a review that I took a second look and realized the new French brand has cooked up a modular design with seven different user-swappable configurations on a case that owes nothing to any Italian diver.
Modular watches always seem like a good idea, but they almost never are because either the process of changing the parts is a pain in the ass or the changes are too slight to bother. Often, it’s a combination of both of those, along with an undeniable third problem of the watch not being all that interesting to begin with. None of these is true of the Montmartre. Swapping parts is easy; doing so radically alters the look, and regardless of configuration, the MW1 is both attractive and distinctive.
Before I move on, I must mention that my review sample was a prototype that had seen some use, and the straps are not production pieces either. Still, the key elements were all in place.
The MW1 has a round stainless steel case that measures 41mm wide, 48mm long, and 12.5mm thick from the case back to the top of the double-domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal. The barrel has unbowed sides accentuated by short, vertical brushing. Water resistance is 131m, which is both capable and, frankly, odd. Why 131 and not 130? Or the more common 100 or 150m? Because it is a Parisian brand and the highest elevation in Paris is 131m. It will handle a deeper dive than you are ever likely to take, and it’s a nice little nod to the hometown. The screw-down crown is polished, signed, and knurled, which looks cool and also affords excellent grip.
I have to give a little extra attention to those nifty little lugs. Pill-shaped in profile, they are quite compact and appear to be even smaller than they really are due to the rounded ends. They attach to short rounded nubs on the case, so from some angles, they appear to be floating. I had initially thought they might have formed a hinge, but while they look like they might move, they are solidly affixed. That said, there is no need for them to articulate as their sharp downward angle provides all the leeway you need.
Around the back, we have a polished case back with an exhibition window to show your choice of Japanese or Swiss movement. Those who want the lower-cost workhorse will likely pick the Seiko NH35 (21.6k bph), while those who opt for the smoother sweep and Swiss cachet will plump for the Sellita SW200-1 or STP1-11 (both 28.8k bph). This one has the NH35 with a decorated Montmartre rotor.
The dial is nicely done, and a good thing too because that part can’t be switched. It’s a sandwich style with a colorful, sun-brushed outer ring, a black center, and bright SuperLuminova beneath those slots-n-dots markers. Montmartre will offer it in gray, teal, and red in addition to the blue pictured here. Its gold semi-skeletonized handset dresses it up a touch, making the austere layout seem more modern than military. I think the real treat here is the date, which is black, surrounded by a dished gold frame, and then further accented by a novel 3 o’clock marker that wraps in a lumed semi-circle.
Legibility is very good. It has proper contrast and hand length, and the markers and handset all pop to life at night. Yet, there is one aspect where form triumphed over function to the detriment of practicality; that index. It looks great as a means of delineating the inner and outer rings of the dial, and you can use it to track seconds, but its middle position means the thick, lume-filled block of the minute hand obscures more than two marks at a time, making it useless as a minutes index. How big a deal is this? It depends on how you plan to use your watch. I’d say it takes serious tool or dive watch function out of the picture, but I’d also say that while the Montmarte is robust, is not out to replace anyone’s Prospex.
While the bezel varies depending on which module you choose, one key element remains across the line, namely the slotted markers. What makes them so unique is the fact that they are open on the inside, heightening the sense of depth. It’s a cool look. I found the bezel easy to grip, but the action was loose as I moved it through the 60-click rotation. When fitted, the shroud’s corners prevented the bezel from being nudged out of place. Without the shroud, it tended to wander. Of course, this is a prototype, so we can expect these to be tightened up a bit.
Now, let’s take it apart and get into those swappable bits.
This MW1 had a removable bezel and shroud. To do so, I found the slot between the shroud and the case at 12 o’clock and pried it off with the supplied tool. As you can see, this prototype has seen plenty of swaps as well as a slip or two. Montmartre tells me the tool that came with the sample is just a generic screwdriver, and the finished product will have a specially machined aluminum key instead. I expect that will make it seat more securely, but I’d still recommend a steady hand and perhaps a deeper slot. That said, I popped it off with no misses and very little effort.
As you can see in the photo below, this one has two parts, a polished, cushion-shaped shroud that gave the sample its square-shouldered appearance, and a slightly rounded, DLC black bezel. Replacing it was just as easy; just align the shroud with its notch over the crown to hold it fast (this one is larger than the notch at the top used to pry it off), put the bezel back in its place, and give it all a little push with your fingers. It really couldn’t be easier.
I found the MW1 to be a good fit on my 6.75″ wrist; sporty big but not oversized. Of course, the cushion shroud made it appear all the larger, while the DLC bezel alone shrank it a tad.
This is where I would normally talk about straps, but I’m going to give that a pass as both the Milanese mesh and black leather pass-through were placeholders. The leather worked fine but was a one-off made for the mule. The mesh was a generic that proved to be an impossibly tight fit. Suffice to say that the productions straps will be similar to these, but better all around.
The MW1 has a projected MSRP of €450 for the NH35, €600 for the Swiss units, and an additional €70 for additional steel modules, €95 for DLC. Of course, Kickstarter Early Birds will get them for less, but those rewards have not yet been announced.
Montmartre has done something truly rare by creating a modular watch that lives up to its promise. The MW1 is a good-looking watch to begin with. Want a fixed or movable bezel? Brushed stainless or black? Round, cushion, or oval shape? Shroud or no? It’s your choice. The parts interchange with almost zero effort, and each one completely alters the perceived size and shape of the case as well as providing variety in color and finish. Assuming the prototype’s teething problems are resolved, the MW1 will no doubt attract a healthy following.
For more information, to sign up for alerts, and to see the next projects Montmartre has in the works, head over to montmartre-watchworks.com.
