At this point in the world of the microbrand dive watch, there are certain features we’ve come to expect: solid endlinks, milled deployant clasp, 200 meters of water resistance, strong lume, sapphire crystal, uni-directional 120 click bezel, Seiko or Miyota movement, etc. At this point, how a brand combines those elements is what will set them apart.
With the Rogue Type 1, the watch combines all of these elements and more into a tight, angular package. At only 46mm lug to lug and 41mm wide, the watch wears much more compactly than the specifications sheet would suggest. The bent lugs, beveled insert, and flat sapphire crystal keep the watch close to my wrist and a fairly cuff-friendly 13mm thick. The screw-down crown is knurled and proportioned for easy use. The same knurling is on the bezel and makes it easy to grip and turn. The polished chamfers around the top of the case keep it from appearing like a metal slab. The brushed top and sides merge well with the brushing on the bracelet to present a seamless package.
I really do like Rogue’s take on the classic beads of rice bracelet. Instead of the traditional rounded beads, Rogue flattened out the curves for a more modern look that matches the angles and planes of the case. The bracelet consists of links with a row of fused beads (three polished in the middle flanked by two brushed exterior beads) and tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp. In a step up from the usual specs, the links are screw connected, making it extremely easy to size for my 6.5” wrist. All of the links freely articulate, and they flowed very well around my wrist. The solid endlinks match snugly with the case and have no play at all. I wish that the bracelet had quick-release spring bars to better facilitate strap changes, as putting the Type 1 on either a contrasting or matching rubber strap is a great way to change its look.
Rogue sent a prototype Sports Blue model, which features a blue and gray aluminum bezel, a blue circular brushed sector dial, and an orange seconds hand. The seconds hand is a great choice to add a pop of contrast to the watch. As a result of their successful Kickstarter campaign, Rogue has several other color options ranging from black to yellow to teal to salmon. All feature a bi-color bezel with engraved, lume filled markings and a dial with applied hour markers. The white dial is a full lume, and on the others, the indices are filled with literal puddles of BWG9 lume. Rogue probably could have gone a little easier on the lume compound as it threatened to overflow the hour markers, but the dial lights up like a Christmas tree after only a few minutes in the sun, so it’s hard to complain about the results. The rectangular hands and indices are a good complement to the angular form of the case.
The handset changed between the prototype and production models as Rogue swapped them for hands that are a bit longer and bolder. Both handsets complement the dial and the case well, and I have no complaints with either the prototype or production versions.
Under the hood is the possibly prototypical movement choice of the microbrand dive watch: a Seiko NH35. Reliable, easy to maintain, and pretty near to bombproof – Rogue chose a movement that definitely fit with their goals for the watch.
At the current sale price of $250, there is very little to complain about with the Rogue Type 1. The bracelet is comfortable, the case is well finished and sleek, the lume is strong, and the movement is reliable. While the sub-$300 diver space is crowded with microbrands, and buyers are spoiled for choice, the Rogue puts together the expected in an unexpected way, and if that speaks to you, you should definitely take a closer look.
