It has been years since The Time Bum has had an Aevig through the door (5 years ago this month, to be precise), and it is always a treat when we do. Founder and designer Chip Yuen does fantastic work, building an impressive and diverse array of Aevig watches, all of which display his signature style. The latest release is the Thule/Thyïlea (I’ll explain the two names soon), a 70s-inspired titanium sports watch available in both three-hand and GMT configurations. I sampled one of each for this review.
Thule is the ancient name for the northernmost part of the known world and the first name for the collection you will find on the Aevig website. Thyïlea, an alternative spelling, is used in the watch’s description and in a handwriting style typeface on the dial. The watch is both, but after submitting it to Judge Google, I’ll be sticking with Thule since that’s the name that brings up the Aevig sales site when you search it.
By any name, this is a handsome watch. It is constructed from titanium, which should come as no surprise given the number of titanium watches we’ve reviewed this year, and I say, bring ’em on. I love a rugged, lightweight titanium case. Better still, when it has a matching bracelet like this one. Only the clasp is stainless steel. The metal is grade 2 and coated for 1200Hv hardness to keep those scuffs and scratches at bay.
Aevig offers two finishes: satin-brushed for just a hint of shine like this blue Sportswatch, or blasted matte like this brown GMT. Both versions are available in blue or brown, but only the GMT has the matte option. You can’t go wrong with either one. The matte looks more toolish and better telegraphs the gray titanium material, but I preferred the satin brushing as I felt it better suited the dressier elements of the dial.
If you are an older Millenial or even more advanced in age, I can tell you that this is a TV-dial watch without further explanation. For you young folks, I’ll need to explain that video screens weren’t always flat. In olden times, televisions and video monitors used primitive cathode-ray tubes with a curved surface and no hard corners. Hence, the TV-dial name describes watches that present their dials in a slightly bulbous rectangular frame. Or at least it does for now until some Gen Z renames it after something I don’t understand. But that’s not important. What is key here is that TV dials were big in the 1970s, when they seemed edgy and futuristic. Aevig took that 70s avant-garde sensibility and refined it with a Gentaesque flat bezel and sleek, angular lugs to create a handsome, contemporary piece.
The Thule is 39mm wide, 48.5mm long, and 11mm thick. I know 39mm sounds like it is on the smaller end of mid-size, but in this case, it is not. Watch cases appear far larger as they fill out their corners, so the Thule’s barrel shape wears a touch bigger than it would if it were round. That broad TV-dial aperture also adds a couple of millimeters in perceived size. As a result, the Thule has a sturdy, aggressive presence that suits its tool-watch intentions. I found it to be a good, sporty fit on my 6.75″ wrist, and with its relatively low profile, it was easy to find a buttoned shirt cuff to accommodate it, which is good because this is a watch you will want to take to nice places.
It’s not that the Thule is a dress watch; indeed, its space-age case, broad proportions, and low-key finish all suggest adventures, not apéritifs. Its tough coating, sapphire crystal, C3 SuperLuminova, and 100m water resistance will take on life’s challenges with aplomb. And yet, look at that fumé dial, the applied and polished markers, and the faceted hands, all of which serve to raise the Thule’s game. Between the sunray effect and the polished elements, there is a good deal of shimmer on this face that is further complemented by the beveled edge on the crystal. I’m sure this watch would have looked great with a more utilitarian dial, but it wouldn’t have been quite as intriguing. I particularly like the two recesses in the markers and the way they are set into the sloping chapter index.
The GMT makes the best use of this layout by nestling the odd numerals of the 24-hour index in between the tips of each marker. While we are touring the details, check out the light blue fourth hand and offset “GMT” text on that smokey brown dial. Oh, it’s good. Like, chef’s kiss good.
While the Thule’s shapes and colors remind me of some mid-70s Seikos, there is nothing old-fashioned about its design. Every aspect is fresh and fashionable.
Lurking behind the Thule’s unadorned caseback is a Sellita SW200-1 or SW330-2 GMT. These Swiss automatics are built off ETA architecture and should deliver smooth (28.8k) trouble-free service.
The Thule comes standard with a 20 to 18mm titanium H-link bracelet of Chip’s design. Most notably, the center links echo the case’s barrel shape, tying the two units together in a way that a more conventional design would not. It features solid end links, proper screws, and quick-release pins. It also has the sharpest end links this side of the Tsao Legacy for a nearly airtight fit against the barrel.
With the bracelet off, I had to try it on a strap. My DeLugs Natural Chromexel did the trick quite nicely.
As usual, Chip has cooked up a gorgeous new Aevig for us. I hope it is a runaway success, partially because I’d like to see more than just the blue and brown variants. There is tremendous potential here. The Thule is available for pre-order directly from Aevig.com for $735.52 (Sportswatch) and $1105.57 (GMT), including VAT. Of course, we who live outside the EU can knock the VAT off those prices, bringing them to $624.46 and $884.26, respectively. After the pre-sale, you can expect them to bump up another 20%, so if you want one, now is the time. I highly recommend it.
