The Vaer D5 Tropic Diver may very well be my new favorite diver.
Now, before you read too much into that, you should know that: 1) I own dozens of divers and love them, 2) I do not, nor will I ever, dive and 3) I am the kind of person who cannot pick a favorite color for more than a week at a time. That said, the D5 is pretty awesome. I’ve worn it on and off for about two months (yes, I have been unreasonably slow to get this review done), and I find I enjoy it more every time I strap it on. So before I return this very late loaner, let me tell you why it has lept to the top of my list.
The D5 is a mid-sized watch, measuring 39mm wide (40mm across the bezel), 47mm long, and 11.6mm thick, not including the lovely high-domed sapphire crystal that I will discuss later. The D5 series is, as you will see on the dial, American Assembled. A Swiss Made D7 companion series houses an ETA 2824, but that one is not available with the Tropic dial. The D5’s heart is a Miyota 9015, a smooth runner that also happens to be one of the slimmer automatic movements. On my 6.77″ wrist, the D5 is a perfect fit. It is not too large, not too small, and with an appropriately sporting presence that asserts itself with clever styling as opposed to sheer bulk.
Being a proper diver, the D5 has a screw-down crown, 200m water resistance, a 120-click unidirectional bezel, and 15 layers of bright C1 SuperLuminova. The loaner arrived with both the optional bracelet and a rubber tropic strap. I’d say its practicality is not in question, so with that out of the way, let’s talk about how great it looks.
In addition to being neatly proportioned, the D5’s case contains a combination of shapes and finishes that keep it lively. Taking it from the top, we have the curve of the crystal flowing into a similarly angled bezel, creating the illusion that it is all one glorious bubble rising from the case. The insert is glossy ceramic with engraved and lume-filled markers. Coin texturing affords a secure grip, and the bezel moves through its rotation with precise clicks and zero back play.
There is some rather sophisticated sculpting here. From the side, you can appreciate how the bezel’s deep undercut meets the broad bevel traveling the length of the case. Both surfaces are polished, creating the illusion of great depth with their shadows and reflections. Now follow that bevel to the lugs as they twist inward bombé style and terminate at the curved ends. From there, follow it back up the brushed and bowed underside. Those curves, channels, and crisply creased edges create a delightful interplay. It’s a sexy case.
Around the back, things are a bit more prosaic. We have a brushed case back and a sapphire display window showing the very workmanlike 9015 inside. Vaer has added an engraved rotor, but that is all the decoration you get.
Enough of that. Let’s go to the dial. Vaer offers the D5 in Atlantic, Pacific, and Arctic variants, each of which reflects a traditional diver’s layout. They are all handsome watches, but I requested the decidedly different Tropic. Unlike the others, the Tropic features a thick white outer ring marked in increments of five. Inside is a tall white-on-black index surrounding a black center. Where a conventional diver’s layout opens up the dial and makes the face appear larger, this one does the opposite. Those bold white elements on the outside serve to bring your gaze inward, so you focus on that much smaller black area, thus compressing the dial. Of course, the Tropic is no smaller than any of the others, but I dig the effect. Legibility is not compromised in the least, as those long brushed hands land exactly where they should.
There is also a date. I tend to be ambivalent about dates. I can gladly live without them, but they are certainly nice to have when well executed. This one is very well executed. It is positioned at 6 o’clock in a window that matches the shape of the index. It is color-keyed white-on-black, just like the dial, except when it is red. I’d call it a roulette date wheel, except it only goes red every fourth day. Maybe it’s roulette for cheaters. Still, I love that it is both an unexpected pop of color and a retro throwback.
You might think all of that white stuff is lumed, particularly since it has the slight yellowish tinge of C1. I certainly thought so, but I was wrong. Vaer lumed the hands, the index, the triangle and bar markers on the bezel, and interestingly, a triangle positioned at 12 o’clock below the index. Would more lume have been brighter? Sure. Would it have been better? Maybe not. The relatively small black numbers would likely have been lost on a glowing background. Vaer did the right thing by giving us what we needed, even if it was not what we expected.
The Vaer D5 Tropic Diver’s standard strap is, appropriately enough, a rubber Tropic style that was all the rage in the late 60s. (Yes, it’s standard on the other models too.) It’s a good look on a vintage-inspired diver such as this and has been updated with quick-release pins and FKM rubber. Now, I must admit that I have become a rubber strap snob. I was never a fan of stiff straps. Silicone feels good but collects lint like I collect watches. Even the vaunted Isofrane leaves me cold. About the only kind I’ll wear these days is FKM. It’s soft, it’s durable, it’s not linty, and it just happens to be what Vaer uses because clearly, they know a quality product when they see it.
D5 buyers can choose a second strap for their watch. I got the bracelet (remember, always buy the bracelet or you will regret it later), and it is a quality piece. It tapers from 20mm to 16mm at the milled, signed, push-button diver’s clasp. The end links are solid, of course, and fitted with quick release pins, which are handy on straps but a Godsend on bracelets. My one gripe? The three links are fused, not individually articulated.
Finally, a word about the packaging: Vaer’s is among the best I’ve seen lately. It is clean and stylish, not oversized, and mostly cardboard. The watch and its extra strap are securely fitted into their narrow boxes and tucked tightly into a larger one. Everything is appropriately protected and it feels special to unbox but there is no bulk and minimal waste. This is how it should be done.
Admittedly, I’ve had my eye on the D5 since it was first released, but I did not expect to be so taken with it. I am not ashamed to say that I have found myself admiring that pinch between the case and bezel, or the light bouncing off the reflective bits, and completely forgetting to look at the time. It’s not a flashy watch but one that catches your eye from time to time and makes you think, “damn, they did a nice job.”
If I’ve convinced you to buy a Vaer D5 Tropic Diver, you might be momentarily disappointed as they are currently out of stock. Never fear; they will return. If you prefer one of the other three models, you will be pleased to learn that they are all currently available for $499 with rubber and a nylon strap or $539 with rubber and a bracelet. Head over to VaerWatches.com and check them out.
