Singapore’s Zelos Watches has had a presence at every District Time event, right from our humble beginnings. Sadly, that streak was broken in 2022 when an inopportune customs delay held up the delivery of show watches until the day after the show. Alas, such is life. But before I sent these back home, I wanted to share them with you. It won’t be my usual review because, frankly, I’ve got too many here, but I would like to give you my first impressions of some of the fun pieces Zelos has both in the current collection and coming soon.
So, moving in order of price, I’ll start with …
Swordfish
I have a particular fondness for the Swordfish, not just because at $429 it is the least expensive of the bunch, but because it looks so clean with that brushed bezel and fumé sunray dial.
This 200m diver is nicely sized (40mm wide, 12mm thick) and crafted from titanium. Inside, is a sturdy Seiko NH35. Outrageously good Zelos lume (C3 X1 and BGW9) is a given.
Comet
The latest addition is a new collection that is not going to be called the “Constellation” even though it says so on these prototype dials (you might recall another watch by that name) but Comet instead. I got to sample three of these and they are lovely.
The Comet will be among the smallest watches Zelos has produced, measuring 39mm wide, 45mm long, and just 10mm thick including the flat sapphire crystals front and rear. Broad dials and a stylized diamond crown ensure a healthy wrist presence.
Lume is, of course, excellent.
The Comet will have a Swiss Sellita SW215 hand-winding movement, Horweeen leather straps, and an assortment of dials ranging from the conventionally attractive (I do like this textured silver and sky blue combo) to the exotic like the Aventurine and gold-infused carbon fiber shown here.
It’s neither a pilot’s watch nor a dress watch but rather a tremendously fun watch and a singular expression of the brand’s vision. The Zelos Comet is due to launch in May and will start at $599.
I have to tell you, this one will be hard to resist.
Mako
I’ve covered the Zelos Mako before. I own an early bronze Batman (reviewed here) and I love its classic proportions (40mm x 46mm), tall sapphire dome, 300m utility, and generous application of lume on the face, bezel, and crown. This batch contained two Makos, one in stainless steel with a wild “Crystalized Ti” dial and the other in a hardened titanium case and bracelet with a fumé burgundy dial.
Crystalized Ti is acid-etched and anodized titanium. The process brings out the crystalline structure of the metal and looks simply amazing; a bright blue with remarkable depth, infused with shimmering flecks.
The burgundy fumé is more than its name lets on because in addition to the rich color and fade effect, the dial also has a strong texture that swirls outward from its center. This watch gets a black ceramic bezel insert.
Both watches use a reliable Miyota 9015 movement and feature color-matched date wheels and excellent H-link bracelets. It lists for $549.
Great White V2
Like the Mako but want something bigger? Then the Great White was made for you. It keeps all the Mako goodness but upsizes it to a 43mm case. This series 2 even keeps the thickness to a very manageable 12mm. This model is the “Blood Moon” featuring a burgundy meteorite dial for $629.
Spearfish
The Spearfish is a mid-sized (40mm) 300m diver. I got to sample Frost White and Forged Carbon versions. Of all the watches in the Zelos box, the Spearfish was the most streamlined. It’s just 11.5mm thick and slim, angular lugs further accentuate its low profile. The result is sleek and versatile. Indeed, if you were to buy the white dial with its black ceramic bezel and 20mm 3-link bracelet, it could be your daily go-to watch.
But what if you wanted to fly your freak flag? Then I’d suggest the forged carbon. That chaotic gray swirl is a hallmark of this unique material and I must say I like it better as a decorative element than I do as a structural one. Carbon cases are light and look funky but feel wrong to me. By pairing the high-tech material with a conventional hardened stainless steel case, Zelos provides its unique look in a matter that shields you from its sometimes unpleasantly plasticky qualities.
Perhaps the Spearfish’s most intriguing aspect is its movement, the La Joux-Perret G100. This Swiss automatic is a direct replacement for the ETA 2824 but with an outstanding 68-hour power reserve.
The Spearfish is $749, except for the Forged Carbon, which is $799 and, incidentally, the only one currently in stock.
Mirage 8 Days Skeleton
The most striking of the bunch was this Mirage 8 Days Skeleton. This one defies easy description. It has a large titanium case, a pilot’s watch layout, a semi-skeletonized handset, and an icy blue sapphire dial. In vintage pilot watch fashion, Zelos has done nothing to minimize the Mirage’s size. You can appreciate every millimeter of its 42 x 48 x 13mm dimensions, and that tank-tread bracelet actually makes it seem larger still.
If you associate micro brand watches with inexpensive tool watches using workhorse Seiko or Miyota movements, then the Mirage will be an eye-opener. It packs a Swiss, hand-wound, twin-barrel, La Joux-Perret movement with an 8-day power reserve and straddles a strange line between a tool watch and a concept piece. Think of it as a flieger on acid.
At $3,900 it is one of the more expensive watches Zelos has produced, but right in line when you consider that movement.
Pretty as it may be, the Mirage can still mix it up a bit. Its titanium case and bracelet are hardened to 1200hv and it is water resistant to aviator-typical 50m, which is not dive-worthy but more than enough if you can keep your plane out of the water.
