The recent bronze dive watch boom is one I’ve watched with great interest and a little bemusement. I love vintage watches, and I love patina, but the oxidation effect on bronze is definitely a take-it-or-leave-it proposition. After all, the way the watch looks when new out of the box is not what it’s going to look like in short order, especially if you wear it in saltwater. For those who know what they are getting into, however, the way a bronze watch ages will yield a unique work of art. It’s fitting that M Movement has outfitted their new Subaqueo dive watch with features that will make sure it stands out no matter how the case looks.
M Movement is a brand that extols Aesthetics, Adaptability, and Applicability. Each of those words lends its first letter to compose its logo, which assembles those As into an M that resembles a mountain range. The brand operates out of Singapore with an emphasis on products that bring value to its customers’ lives. It’s a noble goal, so let’s see how they did with their debut watch, the Subaqueo.
The Subaqueo’s case is 42mm in diameter with a 22mm lug width. I generally prefer my straps in 18 or 20mm, but the wider band feels very proportionate here. The sizeable screwdown crown would have looked ungainly on a smaller watch but fits the Subaqueo well. It’s easy to operate between the chunky crown guards, and the watch is good for 300 meters of water resistance. What could have been a hard-edged piece of utilitarian metal has been softened through gentle curves and chamfers but doesn’t give up any of its tool watch aura. The Subaqueo feels substantial, as it should at 135 grams, but it wears well on my 6.5” wrist thanks to lugs that tuck in nice and tight. It also feels a bit topheavy, thanks in part to its nearly 15mm height, though the sapphire crystal is thankfully flat rather than domed.
I would like to point out that the caseback is also bronze, so folks with sensitive skin or a nickel allergy may want to be careful, but in practice, I didn’t notice any staining or irritation. The caseback features the brand’s logo and the Subaqueo name in a flowing script, surrounded by some basic specifications. It’s secured via some rugged-looking little bolts that give it an industrial look and feel.
The included brown leather strap is quite stiff but should wear well once broken in. The matched, branded bronze buckle is a nice touch. I’ve seen similar watches drop the ball when it comes to matching the buckle, but thankfully here this is not the case. I do think the Subaqueo is crying out for a rubber or sailcloth strap, given its nautical nature.
The 120-click unidirectional bezel is brushed, and the recessed numerals are lumed, including minute hash marks for the first 20 minutes. The bezel’s pronounced coin edge is easy to grip and is nicely polished, contrasting with the brushed finish of the rest of the case. It turns with a fairly light touch but has a satisfying feel that really adds to the sturdiness of the watch.
The “stone” dial is sensational up close, with a nice matte texture and delicate veins throughout. It contrasts nicely with the gold hour markers, date indicator, and the power reserve gauge which slashes across the upper left. This isn’t the first power reserve gauge I’ve seen on a modestly priced watch, but to most buyers, those are the provenance of luxury brands. It’s a nice feature to see here, and while the execution might be a bit bold for some tastes, I think it fits the spirit of this watch quite well.
The rest of the dial is equally bold, from the applied gold bar hour markers to the gold-tone date dial at the 6 o’clock position. The minute track and lume pips for the hours are printed on the rehaut. Between the applied hour markers and the recessed power reserve gauge, the dial offers a lot of dimensionality. The handset is nice and clean, with well-lumed hour and minute hands. It’s the bright red power reserve indicator hand that really grabs the eye. You might think legibility would suffer with everything going on on the dial but I found it quite easy to read the time and date given the contrast between the gold hands and markers and the dark stone dial. There’s an Old World elegance to this dial despite its thoroughly modern design and execution. The watch is well lumed, from the numerals on the bezels to the dial, with cool blue SuperLuminova BGW9. The lume on the hands was a bit less bright but still plenty visible in low light. Overall, it’s a nice effect.
I’m used to power reserve gauges as a separate subdial altogether – seeing the hand centralized is unusual but works well in the context of the watch. That bright red fourth hand contrasts very well against the rest of the watch and perfectly matches the red Subaqueo text at the top of the dial, as well as the cute little “E” to denote that the power reserve is nearing empty. It’s unfortunate that the E doesn’t line up with the actual bottom of the gauge, which actually continues for about half an inch past it. It’s a minor gripe as otherwise the size and placement of the gauge look very good.
Making all this happen is the Seiko NE57, a 29-jewel, 21,600 BPH automatic movement. Its standout feature is the central power reserve gauge. I confess this is my first experience with it outside of an actual Seiko Presage. I’m a fan.
The whole watch gives the impression of being some turn-of-the-century gauge from an early submarine, but that’s not to say it’s some overwrought steampunk cosplay accessory. Far from it, the watch doesn’t feel gimmicky, but functional and solid. It’s a useful tool, perhaps descended from a family heirloom piece of furniture or nautical clock.
The Subaqueo is available from M Movement, as well as a Kickstarter pre-order, but it’s limited to 99 pieces. The watch retails for $540 USD, but readers of this site also get a promotional code good for $50 off (promo code: THETIMEBUM). To me, that is a great price for this watch. I’m eager to see what M Movement does next. Visit their website at www.mmovement.co/ to learn more.
