I’ve long said that you can’t truly understand a watch until you’ve held it in your hand. Photographers, videographers, copywriters, and reviewers all do what they can to tell a good tale. Still, all of the pictures, flowery praise, and ruthless criticism in the world pales in comparison to the physical experience of strapping a watch on your wrist. This is why I feel so fortunate that my first experiences with Formex Watches were at watch events, first at Watches, Whiskey and Wine in Maryland, and then at our very own District Time in Washington, DC. Since its inception, Formex has taken its own path, designing distinctive watches incorporating novel engineering like the case suspension system on the Motorsport collection or the interchangeable bezel system on the Reef. The Field Automatic is less complex than either of those models, and starting at $820, it is by far the most affordable watch in the Formex line, yet this Swiss-made beauty gives up nothing in style or execution.
I’ll start with the style. Measuring 41mm wide and just 10.6mm thick, the Field cuts a slim figure on your wrist. Short, dropped lugs extend the length to only 46.6mm. Being a rather small-wristed fellow (6.75″), I found these proportions right on target. Factor in the light weight of the matte-finished titanium case, and you have one exceptionally comfortable watch.
With its flat sides and fixed bezel, the case design is almost deceptively simple, as indeed, a field watch should be. But then you notice the raised bars between the lugs and that whisper of a beveled edge traveling the length of the case to wrap around the tips of the lugs, and you realize that it is perhaps a bit more subtle than you initially thought. Around the back, you will find just a pattern and a logo, but keep looking, and you will discover that sharply rendered diminishing honeycomb pattern creates the illusion of a sphere. The Field is full of those delightful surprises.
The Field’s face offers an updated spin on the conventional field watch layout. A sandwich dial consisting of small dot and bar markers inside a printed railroad track index surrounds a stylized set of stencil-cut Arabic numbers. These are attended by vintage-style brushed syringe hands and a lollipop second hand. It successfully treads the line between the traditional and the modern. My favorite details are the deep chamfers on either side of the color-matched date and the tiny bit of lume on the second hand’s counterweight.
Black is the typical field watch color, and Formex will happily supply you with one (Charcoal, to be precise); however, the more fashionably adventurous will try the Sage Green pictured here, Ash Grey, Mahogany Red, Petrol Blue, or the real show-stopper, Ultra Violet. All have Old Radium SuperLuminova.
The Formex Field Automatic is undoubtedly attractive, but it is, first and foremost, a tool watch. As such, they built it to take a beating. Its grade 2 titanium body is strong, antimagnetic, and hardened to 900 Vickers. The signed, screw-down crown is an ideal size with a fluted edge that offers excellent grip. Its sapphire crystal has an interior anti-reflective coating. Inside, you will find a reliable Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, a 26-jewel version of the venerable ETA 2824 architecture. Finally, the watch is sealed for 150m water resistance.
Formex is always looking to push the envelopes of design and engineering. On the Field, that commitment is most apparent in the Fine-Adjustment Deployant Carbon Clasp. Like other deployants, the Formex clap routes the long end of the strap through the fastener and under the short end, leaving no tail exposed and obviating the need for keepers. Constructed from a carbon composite, it is strong and exceptionally lightweight, but that is not the cleverest part. What makes it unique is the way the pin assembly that holds the long end fits into a short channel inside the clasp. With a push of a button, you can slide it adjust the length, then lock it in place, even with the watch fastened to your wrist.
After putting so much thought into the clasp, Formex couldn’t skimp on the strap itself. The review sample came on 20mm tan Italian leather, tapered to 18mm, and fitted with quick-release pins at both the lug and clasp ends. When you order your watch, you will also enter your wrist size so they can send you the correct length strap. If you are willing to forgo the clasp, you can opt for Formex’s surprisingly soft nylon weave and Velcro.
Of course, the system works seamlessly with Formex straps, but it will work just as well with a third-party strap of equal size. No, Formex did nothing weird like a 17mm attachment point; your 20/18mm strap just needs to be thin (2.5mm). It accepts a 90-120mm short side and a 110mm long side with holes spaced 7.5mm apart.
I love the engineering and execution, it looks great, and it’s even signed, but is it, in fact, better than a plain old pin-buckle strap? That depends. I tried the sample watch on both the supplied deployant and a slim leather strap from my collection. While both functioned just fine, the Formex Fine-Adjustment clasp felt slightly thicker on my wrist than the fastened buckle, although my calipers told me the difference was no more than a millimeter. On the other hand, it is the sort of thing that makes a Formex a Formex. If you like the tail-free look, the ability to make fine adjustments on the fly, and the novelty of Formex’s idea, it is absolutely worth it. If you have no issues with the fit or the appearance of a conventional strap and are not curious about the Fine-Adjustment mechanism, you might want to pass, particularly since it adds $155 to the price.
The Field is available for pre-order now at formexwatch.com. It sold out in a flash, and I can understand why. It is a brilliantly designed, immensely satisfying watch. Formex promises new inventory by the end of June, and I’d suggest you check them out sooner rather than later. There are some great titanium tool watches out there, but for under $1000, the Formex Field Automatic is the best I’ve seen.
