There is a downside to collecting and reviewing watches that no one wants you to know about: after a while it’s easy to get a little jaded, to start to nitpick rather than marvel at these little pieces of mechanical magic the way we used to. Every once in a while, however, a piece arrives to shake you out of that cynicism. The Straum Opphav is just such a watch. Made by Straum, a microbrand operating out of Norway, the Opphav perfectly captures Scandinavian design simplicity while evoking the region’s stark landscapes. Let’s go on a journey across that landscape together (sorry, I couldn’t resist).
The contours of the beautifully brushed 41mm 316L stainless steel case are highlighted by polished chamfers around the case edges as well as the bezel. I really like the broad, squashed crown guards, but I confess the design might have looked cleaner without them. The crown itself is a perfect size, with nicely finished, flattened sides that are easy to grip. It’s not a screw-down crown, but 100 meters of water resistance means you won’t have to worry too much about giving the Opphav a light soaking. While sporty, the elegant design and 11mm height makes this a great dress watch that can fit easily beneath a shirt cuff. There is something unmistakably reminiscent of the Patek Phillipe Nautilus without feeling like a knock-off, from the contours to the bright chamfer around the outer edge of the bezel. That’s not a slight against the Opphav, which manages to feel totally like its own thing, thanks in large part to the dial design.
This dial really begins and ends with its gorgeous, stamped steel and lacquered backdrop, but there is so much more to appreciate. The hour markers are real standouts, with the even-numbered hours a bit larger and extending beyond the dial to give the impression that they are holding it in place above the sunken outer minute track. There’s a sense of depth and thoughtfulness that continues to reveal itself the more you look. Dial text is minimal and cleanly executed, from the printed elements to the applied Straum S logo, which looks like it’s peeking out from a snowdrift. The placement of the “Swiss Made” text is a little odd, but there’s nothing wrong with it; I’m just used to seeing it along the bottom edge of a dial if it’s there at all.
The dial itself is a stamped steel disk with a naturalistic texture that in this silver-white version very effectively imitates a snowy landscape as seen from above. The roughness of the texture is softened by layers of clear lacquer that give it a marvelous sheen. It’s not an exaggeration to say that this dial rivals that of watches multiple times its price, including the likes of Grand Seiko (and as an unabashed Grand Seiko devotee, that’s not a compliment I offer up lightly). The Opphav is also available with black, blue, or green dials, all of which offer the same level of artistry and any of which I would gladly wear on my wrist.
The lume execution on the Opphav is also worth discussing. Prior to the launch, I saw plenty of marketing shots of the lume glowing upon the stamped steel dial, and I thought to myself, “Well, isn’t that a nice bit of Photoshop? They’re trying to evoke the Northern Lights lighting up the tundra.” Here’s the thing: it actually does look that good when the lume is charged. The lume shines right through the hands, bathing the dial surface in the glow of blue Superluminova BGW9. I’ve always been a little ambivalent about lume, but I have to concede here: it’s an alluring effect and I love it when the lights go down on this watch. The hands themselves are elegant and uncomplicated, though legibility suffers a bit in the daylight with the white dial due to a lack of contrast. Further differentiation between the hour and minute hands might have helped. That is truly a nitpick, though, as the total package that the Opphav offers up is remarkable.
I make no secret of preferring an engraved caseback to an exhibition caseback, but I accept that many people like to admire the movement within. Here’s a thought: why not both? Here Straum shines with one of the most genuinely interesting casebacks I’ve seen. A band of metal bisects the back of the case, on which is a relief of mountains and a fjord. On either side of that band are two sapphire windows showing the movement, a Sellita SW200-1. It’s not a decorated movement, and that’s fine. You get a peek of balance wheel, a glimpse of rotor, a glint of ruby, and that’s plenty, especially when taken as just one facet of the greater whole. There’s some basic text that notes specifications surrounding the relief and crystal windows, but you won’t likely notice it. This is one of my favorite casebacks in recent memory, from both visual and tactile standpoints.
The partially hooded lugs give this watch a vintage feel without making it look like a throwback, and allow for a very clean integration of the strap. The only downside to that is that the strap ends up being a little wider than might have been strictly necessary but that can be solved with any regular 22mm strap, and 2 sets of lug holes mean you can get a perfect fit with a variety of thicker or thinner straps. The included leather strap itself is quite lovely, beautifully tanned and stitched. It’s thick, and a little stiff on unboxing, but once it’s broken in it’s a real winner. The signed pin buckle is also a standout and fits nice and flush against the wrist. Straum also offers an H-link bracelet with a hidden deployant clasp. It looks great but at €329 ($344 USD) the price is a bit steep for my tastes, especially when the leather is so nice. The straps are also available in a multitude of colors to best compliment your choice of dial, as is the included leather watch roll.
The Opphav retails for €829 or $886 USD in a limited edition of 125 pieces per color. That price may seem high, but for that, you are getting a watch that I have variously compared to Patek Phillipe and Grand Seiko in this review, absolutely iconic watches. That’s not hyperbole, either: the design and finishing on this watch are top-notch, and I’ve had numerous people ask about it and ask to try it on, both neophytes and die-hard watch collectors. That’s a win in my book. To learn more about the Opphav, visit them at straum.co.
