When I spoke to the representative from Graham Watches about doing a review, I joked that I’d need to choose my review sample carefully because while many of their watches are very large, I am not, and I wouldn’t want a watch that could tip me over. Later, when I saw the watches available in the States for review, I immediately chose the Graham Fortress. “Loren,” I was warned, “do you realize that’s a 47mm watch?” I did. The fact is, it looked so good that I just didn’t care.
Graham as a brand traces its history to 1695 and the English clockmaker George Graham; however, its more relevant history starts 300 years later in 1995 when a group of Swiss and British enthusiasts revived the name. Watch nerds will most likely associate the brand with oversized mechanical chronographs that often feature bold dial designs and Graham’s signature left-hand trigger actuator. This one is a mechanical chronograph but does not have either of the other two features. That is not to say that the watch lacks impact — far from it — only that it coveys its presence in a manner that is more traditional and to my eye, more appealing.
It’s not just the size of the Graham Fortress that makes it an unusual Time Bum selection; at $7,450 the price is also out of my usual zone. I’m the sort of person who will dither for weeks over a purchase that is cheaper by a factor of ten. Hell, I’ve owned cars that cost less than that. (Ok, they were used cars, but still pretty nice ones.) If I’m laying out that much for a watch, it had better be good. I’m pleased to report that the Graham Fortress exceeded my expectations.
We start with the Graham caliber G1747, a modified ETA/Valjoux 7750 (28.8k, 25 jewels, 48hr power reserve) set up for a left-hand orientation and monopusher operation. A firm press of the thumb on that single button in the massive onion crown does the trick, cycling through start, stop, and reset. You can peer through the sapphire display window for a better look at its blued screws and custom rotor.
You won’t find a small case in the Graham line-up, and this makes a good deal of sense. Their whole design philosophy involves easy actuation of large buttons or levers. That is just not going to fly on a 40mm case. So, the Fortress, like others in the brand’s collection, is kind of a beast: 47mm wide, 55.5mm long, and 17.4mm thick from the case back to the peak of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Once you factor in the 11mm wide button-topped onion crown, it’s clear the Fortress is a big boy by any standard. I have a smallish 6.75″ wrist, but I didn’t let that stop me. Would it look more appropriate on a 7+” wrist? Well, yes, I must confess that it probably would. On the other hand, this is a bold sports watch. There is no way anyone is going to shove it under a buttoned shirt cuff or wear it with a suit. You’ll wear this one when you want to show off a little. Ok, maybe a lot.
The photos don’t lie. I can handle watches up to 52mm long and no more. At 53mm, the Fortress pushed the physical limits of my wrist, and yet, I never found it heavy or awkward. It was surprisingly comfortable, even after wearing it all day. The only drawback was my constant worry that I would knock this big beauty into a countertop or doorframe (I didn’t). For someone of my size, one of Graham’s 44mm offerings like the Fortress GMT or even the outrageous Chronofighter Vintage Bolt would probably be the better bet, but remember, this is the one that spoke to me. When a watch speaks, I listen.
That whopping case is rather pretty and expertly finished. Arched lugs with rounded ends allow a comfortable fit. Curved case sides prevent it from looking too blocky or imposing. The polished finish dresses it up and, more importantly, blurs the edges for a tighter, more sophisticated appearance. Its brushed, concave bezel offers an appealing contrast. But the most striking element has got to be the crown, a massive, shining onion topped with a fat button.
As I mentioned above, the crown and button make practical sense for ease of use and as a means of establishing brand identity. It also works from a purely aesthetic standpoint. Obviously, a large case needs a proportional crown, but does it need to be quite this big? No. There is another element in play here. The Fortress has more than a touch of vintage pilot’s watch in its design, and when you consider that massive crowns on those early specimens, Graham’s unapologetically bold crown is actually quite traditional. Regardless of motive or inspiration, it works here.
Now, the dial. Graham makes good use of the Fortress’s expansive real estate, employing large applied and polished numbers and rhodium nib-style hands. There is even enough room to fit the oversized brand and model names without either looking too crowded. Big and little subdials at 3 and 6 still carve into the hour markers, nearly obliterating the six, but that too is a very traditional style choice. Those tall, cleanly defined markers create incredible depth and offer a generous surface area for the vintage-color lume. The Fortress glows like a torch at night.
Pilot’s watches tend to have a military feel, but in its lustrous sunray blue and beige lume, the Fortress seems more sporting to me. If you want a martial look, I’d suggest the equally dashing black dial version. I prefer the more genteel blue, and it seems many agree with me because at press time, only 2 of the limited run of 100 remained in stock.
Graham fits the Fortress with a quality 22mm blue leather strap secured with an appropriately substantial buckle that echoes the style and finishes of the case. Curved ends ensure a close fit to the case, and the linen-colored stitching ties it into the tan lume. My only gripe is that the band’s color wore off quickly where it was fastened. The second photo shows the creasing after just a single day. That said, it did not get noticeably more weathered after wearing it on several more occasions, so I’d say it breaks in quickly but will likely hold up over time. They also offer a brown leather strap if blue-on-blue is not your thing.
Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the Graham Fortress. This is a lovely watch that manages to balance its aggressive sportiness with more than a touch of refinement. The result is a quirky yet thoroughly charming spin on the Graham aesthetic. Is it big? Of course. Maybe it’s a little too big for my spindly wrists but damn if I didn’t enjoy the hell out of it. The blue Fortress looks amazing, and the fact that it is large enough to appear in satellite photographs is part of its appeal. Had they sized it for my usual comfort zone, it wouldn’t be a Graham.
If you find the blue Fortress as irresistible as I do, head over to graham1695.com. The black dial version is still readily available, but the blue one is going to disappear soon. The Graham Fortress is no small investment, but the brand has made it worth every penny. I highly recommend it.
