Steeldive is a factory brand that offers a selection of homage watches. Time Bum contributor DC Hannay reviewed the Steeldive SD1954 Sub-style and liked what he got for the exceedingly low price he paid. So when I decided I wanted a bronze tuna clone for a project, I gave Steeldive a look and ultimately picked up an SD1975S for $195. I liked the watch but immediately subjected it to terrible things because I purchased it for a patina project that is the subject of a whole separate article. For this review, let’s appreciate the SD1975S as it arrived.
The SD1975S is a dive watch in the same style as the Seiko SBBN015/017 Marinemaster. If there is any confusion at all about its inspiration, the “Marinemaster Professional” label on the dial should dispel it. Steeldive is apparently changing that to “Greenmarine” on future releases, but not on this batch.
The dial is very much like the Seiko’s, sharing the same layout but bearing the Steeldive logo of a diver’s mask on crossed fins and tanks. It is a big image to slap on a watch dial, particularly with the brand name below it, and I’ll confess that when printed in white, its presence turns me off. On the other hand, I think it looks pretty good rendered in gold on this black dial, as the color scheme takes it down a few notches allowing the applied gilt markers and hands to take center stage.
By the way, the lume is pretty impressive. Maybe the SuperLuminova isn’t Seiko Lumibrite bright, but it goes hard. The bezel pip was dim; I’ve got no complaints about the glow of the dial or hands.
Like its idol, this watch has a full case encircled by a protective shroud secured with three screws. You will notice the lugs are considerably more shiny than the shroud or bezel. I had assumed that is because they, and the case to which they belong, are stainless steel. Steeldive says so in the website listing, and I can see where this makes good sense for the company, as they can use the same case for both steel and bronze versions. I’ve seen other factory brands do the same thing, and the Steeldive at least had gold color lugs, so they were a better match than the polished silver color lugs jutting out from some of their rival factories’ offerings. Ultimately, it didn’t matter because, much to my surprise, the lugs did, in fact, patina right along with the rest of the bronze. PVD does not do that. I suppose I could have filed off some of the coating to find out for sure, but now I don’t want to mess up my awesome patina. I’m going to assume the case is actually bronze. [Update: Steeldive has confirmed that the entire case is indeed bronze and that only the caseback is stainless steel. Mystery solved.]
You will see that difference on the underside as well. Thankfully, the caseback was left uncoated. Please pardon the bazillion fingerprints. If you were to crack it open, you’d find a trusty Seiko NH35 automatic. The case is sealed for 300m water resistance, the crown screws down, and it is topped with an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal. Really, it’s everything you’d expect from a dive watch in this price range. Maybe even a little more so.
While I’m pointing out mismatches, I’ll direct your attention to the crown. It’s a nice crown, good size, signed, deep fluting, and it screws down. Oddly, it is significantly darker than the rest of the watch. I suspect this is a matter of the crown inventory being a little older than the shroud and bezel. Bronze oxidizes quickly. It looked a little weird here, but I’d note that the rest of the watch will catch up, and if you don’t want to wait, you can always help the tarnishing process along with something as mild as a hard-boiled egg or as harsh as the indignities I subjected this watch to and which I will tell you all about in my next article.
With the shroud, the case measures 47.5mm wide and 15mm thick. It’s a big boy alright, but it’s only 44mm long, which makes it remarkably easy to wear, even on my 6.75″ wrist.
The Steeldive SD1975S can be ordered with a ceramic bezel insert or the cast bronze one shown here. I actually prefer the look of the glossy black ceramic, but I had a very specific plan for patinating the bezel, which required a bronze surface, and those raised markers on the matte background looked rather cool (they looked even cooler when I was done with them). The bezel action was loose. Not the worst I have encountered, but not exactly confidence-inspiring either. I was grateful for the shroud that kept it from being inadvertently bumped out of place, but I wouldn’t trust it.
I got the watch with two 22mm straps. The porthole rubber is the standard offering. It is a kind of rally/dive hybrid and signed in five places, which strikes me as four too many, especially since the sturdy pre-v style buckle is signed as well. Not that it matters, because I jettisoned it. I may be picky about my rubber straps, but this one is plasticky and uncomfortable. The second strap was a “free gift with purchase” tan NATO-style in the heavy nylon weave I have come to loathe. I didn’t even take it out of its wrapper.
The buckle, on the other hand, looked pretty good with a deep, clean engraving. Its finishing left a little to be desired though, and I had to break out a metal file to smooth out some sharp corners that bit my wrist. Steeldive gives you the option of a stainless steel buckle but why anyone would intentionally pair that with a bronze watch is beyond me.
For $195, I was quite satisfied with the Steeldive. It accurately mimics the Seiko Tuna in bronze form; the dial looks good, with one exception the lume is potent, and the specs are right on target. On the downside, the bezel action is weak, as is the lume pip, and the strap is terrible. But the watch is under $200 on the Steeldive site and just $158 on Alibaba. For that price, I’m willing to make a concession or two, and as it was, the SD1975S was ideal for my patina project.
Stick around. That part was seriously fun!
