“Hey, Loren,” wrote my fellow watch reviewer, “I’ve just been given an Anonimo Militare Chrono Vintage to review. You want it next?”
Of course, I did. I’d been curious about this upscale Italian brand for years. I knew these big divers and their unique designs had earned a devoted following in the enthusiast community, and I liked their unorthodox approach but had never put one on my wrist. A couple of weeks later, I was unboxing the Anonimo, and even though I had seen it in pictures and read about it on the brand’s website, I had to stop for a moment and take stock. This is a curious and strangely appealing watch.
For those who don’t know, Anonimo was founded in Florence, Italy, in 1997 in the aftermath of the Richmont Group’s purchase of Panerai. When Panerai production moved to Switzerland, many former employees joined the new brand, continuing the tradition of Italian watchmaking. That is, until 2013, when Anonimo, too, was purchased and moved to Switzerland. Alas, the cantons’ gravitational pull on the watch world is irresistible. Still, it means the Anonimo collection is Italian-designed and Swiss Made, which is not bad.
The brand is known for big watches, and the Militare Chrono Vintage is no exception. Measuring 43.5mm wide, 54.5mm long, and 14.5mm thick, it is an imposing piece made even more so by its cushion case and a unique guard protecting its 12 o’clock crown that makes the already large watch appear even more imposing.
The case finishing is perfect; all crisp edges and sharp delineation between the brushing and the bright polishing. I love the thick, mirror-polished bezel and its deep coin edge. It just invites you to give it a turn, but alas, it is fixed in place. The rectangular chronograph buttons are also quite impressive, with their polished frames and textured black and red insets. As you would expect from a mechanical chronograph, they engage with a satisfying mechanical click.
Showing the Anonimo to my watch friends, the comments ran the gamut from “that is really cool,” to “that is absolutely hideous.” No one was ambivalent about the Militare Chrono Vintage, and I’d venture to guess that is entirely the point. You don’t buy a watch like this to blend in with the crowd. It’s a statement piece, particularly in the gorgeous matte green shown here.
I am of the former opinion. I think the Anonimo is a fun design. While I have a small wrist (6.75″) and tend to gravitate towards more modestly sized cases for daily wear, I do love a crazy big diver every now and then. Large as it is, the Militare case was quite easy to wear. I wouldn’t take it on a job interview, but it was just right for happy hour with friends. It also happened to be a perfect pairing with my purple and pistachio plaid shirt, and that is a sentence my younger self never imagined I’d write.
The Militare’s unique crown guard is perhaps the most striking aspect of the watch. It is neatly incorporated into the top lugs and signed with crisp, deep engraving. When I first attempted to set the watch, I found myself momentarily baffled as I searched in vain for a release lever or button.
I felt like a fool when I discovered that the entire guard is hinged to fold forward with a simple push, strap and all. To my surprise, the broad, flat crown does not screw down. When you close it, three spring-loaded ball bearings get to work, one on either side of the guard to lock it in place and one on top to compress the crown, sealing the watch for 120m water resistance. It’s an ingenious mechanism.
While we have the watch on its back, you can enjoy a peak at the movement. It’s a Sellita SW300 automatic bi-compax with 49 jewels, a 28.8k bph vibration rate, a 42-hour power reserve, and a signed and Geneva-striped rotor. The case back is no slouch either, as it is brushed, blasted, recessed, engraved, and secured with six screws. It’s a shame to hide it against your wrist. Well, almost. The real attraction is out front.
Under the AR-coated sapphire, we find Anonimo’s signature, double-digit 12/04/08 layout, the three points of which echo the brand’s logo. It is offbeat and modern, establishing a brand identity you can appreciate a mile away. On the Chrono, it has the added advantage of being out of the way of the subdials, so no element needs to be cut off by their presence. Indeed, I prefer the balance of the fuller Chrono dial to that of Anonimo’s more open 3-hand Militare models.
I must say, the name “Militare” caught me off guard as I cannot imagine that my U.S. Department of Defense would order a watch as striking as this one (the Italian armed forces are far more dapper). Similarly, the watch is far more modern than “Vintage.” The Militare design dates back to 2001, but I refuse to call anything from the 21st century “vintage” because that would make me “ancient,” which simply cannot be true. My comments on the name are not offered as criticism but more of an amused observation of the stodgy impression created by the name and the vibrant appearance the watch actually delivers. That pistachio dial is far more exciting than military olive drab could ever be. Pops of red further enliven the dial, appearing on the 30-minute counter, the “A” logo second hand counterweight, and the top center triangle of the railroad track index.
You can opt for black-on-white “Panda” or white-on-black “Newman” variants, but I advise you to pull out all the stops and go for the green. It’s lovely.
I love the long arrowhead on the hour hand. The length of the post-style minute hand, and the acres of surface area for white Superluminova on both. They glow brightly along with the second hand tip and subdial hands. That beige, on the other hand, isn’t quite as bright or as even as that on the hands, nor quite as impressive in the dark, but it does the trick.
Anonimo supplies the Militare Chrono Vintage on a choice of two Mohawk calf leather straps or the green khaki nylon shown here. It’s important that you get one you love from Anonimo because that top piece needs an oddball end to fit around that guard. I’m very picky about nylon or canvas straps these days, as I have found most of them to be as comfortable as zip ties after a couple of hours. This is not one of those straps. It is pliable, leather-lined, and beautifully made. I love the leather reinforcements and keepers and the presence of full box stitching, in addition to the red side accent stitches. A sculpted and dual-finished buckle holds it all together. It’s a gorgeous piece all around, yet still practical for outdoor use, if you are so inclined.
The Anonimo Militare Chrono Vintage has a host of intriguing features, but I feel as though picking them apart, as one must do in a review, misses the point. Its odd layout, unique crown mechanism, bold color, and sheer size work best when taken as a whole and enjoyed on the wrist. That is when you appreciate how Anonimo’s designers took several strong elements that might have overpowered this watch and smoothly integrated them into an immensely enjoyable unit.
You can purchase the Anonimo Militare Chrono Vintage from an Anonimo authorized dealer or directly from the brand for CHF 3390, or about $3,641 US. That is no small figure, but it gets you a uniquely stylish, top-quality watch with features you won’t find elsewhere. I loved taking this one out on the town, and I suspect you will too.
Head over to Anonimo.com for more information or to order one of your own.
