In what is now a Time Bum staff tradition, we are pleased to announce The Time Bum Microbrand Watch of the Year 2022 as well as our selections the Rest of The Best that made this a year to remember for small brands producing great watches.
Here are the rules we followed:
- The watches had to be from microbrands only. This means the brand must have a small number of full-time employees, outsource most of its production, use movements not produced in-house, and conduct sales primarily online with no more than a limited brick-and-mortar presence. Sorry, that means no Seiko or Citizen, but also no Sinn, Yema, or Christopher Ward.
- The watches had to be available to own in 2022. Watches ordered in 2021 for 2022 delivery were in, but those ordered in 2022 for 2023 delivery were out. Prototypes don’t count.
- We could only nominate watches we had actually handled. Just looking good online is not enough. This is the one rule I wish I could bend because there are so many contenders we’d like to consider that we didn’t get the chance to handle (the Moels & Co. 528 leaps to mind), but as we often say, photos and spec lists don’t even tell half the story. You have to put a watch on your wrist to truly understand it.
- The watches could not cost more than $3000. We are trying to balance our commitment to Bum-friendly prices, our desire to include a wide variety, and the fact that it is unfair to pit a $500 microbrand watch against a $5,000 high-end boutique model. Frankly, three grand is a pretty generous ceiling, and this year, we didn’t even come close to it.
- Each contributor could choose no more than five favorites.
It was a crowded field, and once we put forth our nominations, we debated the novelty, execution, and value of each watch. In the end, there was one clear winner that captured our hearts and embodied the best of 2022. Without further ado, The Time Bum team is proud to announce…
The Time Bum Microbrand Watch of the Year 2022: Lorier Zephyr
Lauren: I must be on an Art Deco kick this year. I saw the Lorier announcement and thought that it was a great design and execution of a watch from an earlier age. Seeing it in person at Windup NYC, I was blown out of the water by the fit and finish on the watch. At just $500, the first run sold out fast, but the second round is up for pre-order now.
Nate: Lorier is everything you love in a microbrand: distinct character, an engaged community, and rational pricing. Beyond getting those basics right, Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega further elevated their brand in 2022 with a more daring venture: an Art Deco-styled dress watch. Yes, you can find vintage inspiration beyond the post-WWII tool watch lineup (explorer, diver, GMT, oh my!). Lorier now leads a small fleet of micros engaging with that rich history of dressy, swanky 1920s designs. The tonneau case, guilloché dial, and heat-treated handset combine to hit just the right notes in this jazz ensemble. Well done, old sport.
The Rest of the Best of 2022
The following are the rest of our favorites, presented in alphabetical order.
Abingdon Nadia Black Abyss
Lauren: Abingdon Watch Company has been making watches targeted at adventurous-minded women for the last 14 years, but the Nadia Black Abyss immediately caught my eye at WindUp. Right-sized at 35mm, with a bright and bold color scheme housing a serious workhorse of a watch (every Abingdon watch has at least three functions beyond telling time), it’s a fantastic entry into the too-small women’s dive watch space.
Axia Time Sofia II
Loren: I still find it hard to believe that Axia Time packed so much value into this watch. I mean, a beautifully finished grade 5 titanium case, a Sellita SW360 automatic, that magnificent engraved dial, and a real alligator strap for $595? That’s madness, even before you throw in free engraving. I don’t know how they did it, even if it was only through December 31. Come January 2023, it will be back to reality with a $795 price tag. Still, those lucky who ordered early and got their Sofia’s by Christmas got a hell of a deal.
Batavi Geograaf
Nate: One of the great joys of covering microbrands is watching young brands achieve massive gains in a short amount of time. This year Batavi became a model of that success with their latest release, the Geograaf. Building on their popular and wildly chromatic Kosmopoliet GMT series, Ugar and Mike have truly hit their stride with this Wereldtimer: exceptional case finishing, point-perfect handset, and one of most legible world timer dials I’ve ever seen while still maintaining a bit of whimsy with pops of color and playful moon and sun icons on the inner disc. I can’t wait to see what the windmills churn out of the Netherlands next year.
Bremoir Lexington
Nate: Let’s get this out of the way; I love Art Deco. I love it all., from graphic arts to corner cabinets to cathedrals of commerce and, obviously, watches. No microbrand embodies that Décoratifs style more than Bremoir, who found the bee’s knees with their first release, the Lexington, tastefully modeled after the 1920s captain-of-industry Chrysler Building. In addition to the classic styling cues, Bremoir butters its bacon with high-end finishing, restrained dimensions, and subtle touches like a curved caseback. Patrick Bremer’s brand looks well-poised to usher in the Art Deco Renaissance and brace for the fourth turning.
Dryden Heartlander
Loren: The Dryden Heartlander has all the elements I need for a satisfying everyday watch. It was the right size (38mm), the right style (updated Explorer), had the right features (tall domed crystal, 100m water resistance, tapered bracelet), and was the right price ($500) to make it the effortless choice. But what put it on my list was the way Dryden imparted its own spin, like the big knurled crown, snakehead hour hand, and a multitude of sophisticated color choices. Buyers could choose from among eight variants, but Autumn Rust was my clear favorite. I can’t be sure, but I believe that intense ombre red-brown is the last thing you see if you overdose after snorting a line of pure, uncut pumpkin spice.
Farer Durham/Mansfield/Lethbridge
Lauren: Farer has been known from the beginning for their unique color sense that works even when you’d swear that it shouldn’t. They did it again with the trio of cushion case watches released this year. Fantastic case styling, impeccable dial design, and great finishing on the movement mean that the people who own these watches are lucky indeed.
Formex Field
Loren: Titanium field watches are far more common than they once were, so it takes some effort to make one that stands apart from the crowd. Formex did exactly that when it released the excellent $820 Field at the beginning of the year. Its case is mid-sized, slim, and remarkably comfortable. Formex reimagined a traditional field watch dial as a sandwich with a stylized typeface and then offered it in bold colors with color-matched dates. Add to that a Sellita SW200 and a unique Fine-Adjustment Deployant Carbon Clasp, and you have one brilliant watch.
Haven Trotter
Nate: In the enduring style battle between unique but perhaps outrageous versus safe and dull – I favor the ones who go for it. The crazy ones. The misfits. The round pegs in the square holes. Because, as Steve Jobs reminds us, they change things. And this year Wes Cutter changed my mind about the rules of watch design. His brand, Haven, has long pushed limits of classic styling – logos at 10:30, cattywampus second hands, utter disregard for triangles – but all in the name of producing something both distinct and dignified. Now, that name is Trotter. This caller GMT comes in a superbly slim case (don’t let 12.7 mm deceive you) with a tight dual time bezel (creating a third timezone option) that belies a funky 6-tone colorway and Roman numeral wink at the 10. We eagerly await more Midwest misfits in 2023.
Namica Shirahama
JP: A Kickstarter darling that was fully funded in just 5 minutes; clearly, I’m not the only one who thinks the Namica Shirahama stands out. The matte finish case and bracelet may be polarizing to more traditional watch collectors, as are some of the more colorful dial options. Still, there’s no doubt that the Shirahama is all about fun, especially in its Neo-Tokyo and Cherry Blossom dial versions.
Nodus Sector GMT
Lauren: It’s got Nodus’ great design language and bracelet, an automatic GMT movement, and under $500. Seriously, what more needs to be said?
SōLabs Layer 2
Lauren: The SōLabs Layer 2 goes on my list simply because of how much actually handling the watch at WindUp changed my initial impressions. Just goes to show that you really can’t judge a watch just by pictures on the internet. I think the color schemes are fun, and I really like the innovative use of the gradient color dial instead of a traditional day and date wheel.
Sovrygn Calendar
Nate: While microbrands have experimented with rare and otherwise unapproachable complications – regulator, wandering hour hand, moon phase – few have delivered on a triple calendar as SOVRYGN has. The Ottawa brand immediately caught my attention with their first release, the Calendar, which not only registers day, date, and month with style and clarity but also offers a power-reserve and 24-hour dial at an absurdly good value (currently $449 with code HOLIDAY). Of the many attractive dials and bracelets, I was happy to review the Aqua Blue and discover my new favorite strap monster.
Straum Opphav
JP: The only true dress watch on my list, the Straum Opphav is striking front and back, with a nicely finished case, a stunning dial, and a creative caseback design. At $1,100, it’s not cheap, but it still feels like a great value for the money.
Typsim 200M-C
JP: The Typsim 200M-C is possibly the most affordable Tête de Vipere-certified chronometer available, the certificate from Besançon may give the 200M-C bragging rights from a technical standpoint, but the design is what gives it staying power. At once simple and lavish, this dive watch feels just as beautifully designed as it is rugged. A great neo-vintage diver with an incredibly comfortable bracelet.
Vario Versa
Loren: I’ve enjoyed all of Vario‘s creations, and I have come to expect well-executed watches that cleverly reinterpret the classics. Still, I did not expect the brand to release a 28mm, reversible, duo-face dress watch. The Versa is an Art Deco beauty that features two Miyota quartz movements in a single case, hinged inside a small frame. It is handsome, clever, and highly effective. It was crazy to attempt a watch like this. Most independent brands wouldn’t risk it, and the big players wouldn’t even bother. Microbrand designers, on the other hand, dream up watches like this and sell them for $428. That is something all watch enthusiasts should applaud.
William Wood Fearless
JP: Finishing is the name of the game with the William Wood Fearless, from the severe, black PVD case to the imaginative firefighter helmet caseback design, to the textured charcoal dial. The dial has so many unique elements, all of which work together beautifully. The reclaimed fire hose strap, a William Wood calling card, is the icing on the cake.
