Last month, I reviewed the Davosa Ternos Sixties US Special Edition, a lovely dive-style watch with an unusually long name, which Davosa generously gave to a lucky District Time attendee. Hot on its heels, I received an Argonautic Lumis BS, a larger watch with a shorter name, and some serious deep-water chops.
The dive watch style encompasses many distinct designs from the nearly ubiquitous sub to dual-crown compressors to electronic dive computers to you name it. And yet, there is something irresistible about the kind of diver that looks like a brute force tool. The Argonautic is exactly that type. Its stainless steel case is 43mm wide, 51mm long, and just shy of 14mm thick (13.8mm to be precise) and is sealed for 300m water resistance. Its overall style is almost Brutalist: brushed surfaces, flat sides, hard edges, and chunky crown guards. Bevels and chamfers? Forget about ’em. They simply do not exist. The only concession to organic form is the curvature of the lugs. This is one unapologetic hunk of metal.
My first attempt to use the crown at 10 o’clock ended with the realization that it wasn’t a crown at all but a helium release valve — a fact telegraphed to those more observant than myself by the Helium symbol cleverly engraved in its head. Sure, Davosa could have opted for the discreet, flush-mounted kind but they were clearly establishing a look. That protruding honker is nearly as big as the fat screw-down crown at 3, which, incidentally, is also decorated and a pleasure to operate.
That heavy metal look continues with what Davosa calls a BEYOND STEEL® bezel, which is to say, hardened stainless. With a claimed surface hardness on par with a diamond, it should stave off all but the worst hits from what is generally the most damage-prone area of a watch head. It has engraved and painted markers and a BGW9 lume pip. Bezel action is among the best I’ve had, requiring just the right amount of force to feel secure without being difficult. Its tall and toothy edge provides an ideal grip.
The Argonautic’s vault-like security continues with a thick sapphire crystal (AR-coated, of course) and screwed case back. Decoration is minimal back here. You get the Davosa logo and specs, but that is all.
Inside, you’ll find the DAV 3021 automatic movement, a Davosa-tweaked Sellita SW200. This 26-jewel unit is based on ETA 2824 architecture, so you can expect a smooth (28.8k bph), accurate, and trouble-free life.
Now, one could put a watch like this on a rubber strap, and Davosa will gladly sell you a nice one with a locking clasp for $129, but why break the theme when you can order yours with one of three steel bracelets? They offer a mesh, five-link, and the three-link shown here. It’s a quality piece, 22mm wide, and every bit as solid as the case with tightly-fitted end links. It narrows to 20mm at the clasp, which is signed and features a flip-out wetsuit extension.
Turning our attention to the dial, we find a similarly hard look but with a touch more finesse. The slivery-white surface employs a delightful herringbone texture at its center (blue and black dials are also available). The applied markers and syringe hands are satin-finished. I particularly like the height of those markers and the way they their chiseled tips overhand the tiny lip of the ring on which they are mounted.
The 3 o’clock date is properly framed, and dial text is stacked neatly in the lower half, raised above the jagged surface. What is T25, you might ask? That would be tritium. Each marker and hand (except the second hand) contains a glass tube mounted in shockproof gel and filled with tritium gas.
Tritium is a self-activating light source. Whereas SuperLuminova and other lumes get charged by light sources and them emit that energy, tritium tubes work when a phosphorescent layer in the tube is activated by the radioactive decay of the tritium gas trapped inside. If you have never owned a tritium watch, you are in for a treat. You know how conventional lume blazes like a torch when you first switch off the light and then quickly mellows to a steady glow and eventually fades to black? Tritium has no initial burst, just a steady glow, and it fades over the course of decades instead of hours. The lume pip on the bezel and the tip of the second hand are BGW9, while the rest is tritium. It looks amazing.
Strapped on, the Argonautic felt heavy and purposeful, filling my 6.75″ wrist from edge to edge.
The Davosa Argonautic Lumis BS is available from Davosa for $999. I loved its steel-on-steel motif and industrial edge. It made me want to fight a Great White shark.* After I threw the first punch and the shark had bitten my arm clean off, I’d take comfort in the knowledge that at least the Davosa would be unfazed.
For more information or to place an order, visit Davosa-USA.com.
* Metaphorically, of course. Leave sharks alone. They have enough to worry about.
