I’m going to guess that most of you have not heard of the E. Stohlman Watch Company, and this is fine. It is, after all, a very new brand that debuted its prototypes at the 2022 Watches and Whiskey in Hagerstown, Maryland, and displayed its first production models at District Time in 2023. Nonetheless, it is a brand that deserves to be on your radar because it is made by Eugene Stohlman, whose Maryland Watch Works is bringing watch assembly to the Old Line State, and because the E. Stohlman Earl is a damn fine watch.
Eugene is a skilled watchmaker whose shop manufactures, services, and restores watches. This range of experience informs the design of Earl with its distinctly vintage elements, unexpected twists, and a beating heart assembled right in the U. S. of A.
The Earl’s case is 39mm wide, 46mm long, and 14.3mm thick, including the tall, double-domed, and AR-coated sapphire crystal. Perhaps most surprising is the choice of material, .925 sterling silver. Silver presents an interesting contrast for those of us more used to stainless steel. It is far softer than stainless, even softer than 14k gold, so it is likely to pick up some character sooner rather than later. What you won’t get is patina. Silver normally oxidizes, turning black over time unless it is polished. Stohlman has these cases rhodium-plated to preserve the shine.
Its stepped bezel, onion crown, and horn lugs pay tribute to post-war designs. I particularly like the combination of high polish and short, grainy brushing on the case sides.
The crown is a treat, with the brand’s logo trapped under a clear resin dome. It’s a push-pull, but while the Earl may look like an antique, it has a modern 100m water resistance.
Flip the case over, and you can appreciate the MWW7081a automatic. Based on the ETA 2834, the 7081 is assembled in Maryland Watch Works’ Hagerstown facility and is one of a vanishingly small number of watch movements that can be considered American assembled. No, it’s not “American Made.” That is a whole other story.
On my 6.75″ wrist, the Earl cuts quite a figure: not too big, not too small, a real update on what might otherwise be a 1950s watch design. While 14.3mm sounds fat, I assure you it is not. That 39mm case spreads it out just enough, and a couple of millimeters of height are attributable to the domed crystal. It may not be as small as your great-grandfather’s watch, but it is a modern mid-size that tucks neatly under a buttoned shirt cuff. I would not think twice about wearing it with a suit.
Now, let’s stick our noses into that dial because this is where Eugene really went nuts. He offers the Earl in six variants: Gray Rose (gray dial, rose gold markers), Star Burst (sunburst silver, gold bezel, and markers), Chocolate (brown dial, rose gold markers), Black Enamel (black, silver markers), Black Mother of Pearl (black MOP, rose gold markers), and the White Mother of Pearl shown here. The white MOP is the only one with blued markers, hands, and logo. This is a design element near and dear to my heart. It is a chemically treated blue, not heat treated, but no less lovely. As you can see in the image below, the blueing changes depending on the light, going from a bright royal to a deep navy.
Everything has an extra touch. Those fabulous serifed, Art Nouveau markers are not only applied, but elevated on tiny feet, so they produce, as you’d say in typography, a drop shadow, except, of course, it’s an actual shadow. It comes as no surprise that the day window is properly frame,ed but it is a bonus to see the entire center dial equally framed with a detour around the 6 o’clock date. Speaking of framing, check out the “E. Stohlman” engraving on the rehaut.
Perhaps the most refreshing aspect of the dial is the rainbow minute track. It’s a bold choice, cleverly incorporated. It doesn’t jump out at you so much as it surprises and delights when you give it a second look. That little pop of color goes a long to balance the many traditional aspects of the Earl. It is enough to lighten the mood, preventing the watch from appearing stodgy.
Eugene’s eye for detail did not overlook the strap. It is Black Cherry Nile Aligator, and yes, it feels just as special as it sounds. As you would expect from real gator skin, the leather has a fantastic texture and a slight shine but is remarkably pliable. It is 20mm at the lugs, tapering to 16mm at the understated, fold-over deployant clasp. Both strap and clasp are quite slim, aiding the overall wearability of the watch. I wish more of my dress watches used an arrangement like this.
The E. Stohlman Earl is a limited edition. Only 50 units of each variant will be made. If you place your pre-order now, the price will be $1,600, except for the Star Burst, which is $1,800. Buy two and take 10% off with code STOHLMAN10. Once the pre-sale is over, they will be $2,000 each.
Those who pull the trigger on the Earl will get a watch with thoroughly modern endurance and reliability, old-world charm, and a touch of whimsy. That’s a pretty compelling package. Head over to estohlman.com for more.
