If you are interested in microbrand watches and are not emerging from a years-long coma, you are no doubt aware of Vaer. The California-based brand has turned out a range of outstanding field and dive watches. I have reviewed their D5 Tropic Diver and A5 Field Watch and loved them both. Today, I have the Vaer R1 USA Racing Chronograph. It’s the brand’s first foray into the crowded realm of vintage-inspired MechaQuartz watches, and it’s a good one.
My initial impression of the R1 was that it looked remarkably like the Gruen Precision Chronograph 770 CA owned by fellow Time Bum contributor Nate DeNicola. Granted, his is gold, but you can see the similarities in the two watches’ barrel cases, mixed finishes, and tri-color dials. Similar, but not the same. I wouldn’t call the Vaer an homage so much as a modern interpretation of that classic design.
The Vaer R1 is a handsome watch, and the yellow cream dial shows its qualities particularly well. I love the black and red hemispheres of the 60-minute subdial, and the pop of the red needle on the small seconds. Bright yellow was a bold choice for the sweep hand, given its low contrast on the cream background. It works, although a brushed finish to match the syringe hands would have been more visible. The minute and hour hands are properly sized and allow a generous fill area for C1 SuperLuminova. You’ll find more of the stuff on and above each of the applied hour markers.
If you crack open a microbrand chronograph, there is a fair chance you’ll find a Seiko MechaQuartz inside. I’m a long-time fan of these movements because they combine a reliable quartz timekeeper with a mechanical chronograph module, giving us a crisp actuation and snap-back reset at a budget price. For this watch, they went with a Hattori VK63. While the movement is Japanese, the watch is assembled and tested in the United States; a fact proudly displayed on both the caseback and dial.
Even if its American assembly does not spark any patriotic pride in your breast, it is worth it just for the way they wrapped “American Assembled” over the small seconds subdial. Also, note “TEN ATM” just inside the 7 and 5 o’clock markers. The text integration and symmetry are top-notch.
Vaer offers the R1 in 38mm or 42mm cases (both with 20mm lugs) and black, black/blue, or cream dials. The review sample is a cream 38mm. Given the choice between a larger and smaller watch, I will almost always gravitate to the smaller one as I have a 6.75″ wrist. I also happen to think the 38mm is more faithful to the R1’s retro aesthetic. Still, it is nice that bigger folks (or those who just prefer bigger watches) have the option. This one is 46mm long and a whisper over 12mm thick. These are tidy proportions that happen to fit me quite well.
Even in its smaller guise, the R1’s barrel-shaped case might have looked like a brick were it not for the broad swath of polishing on its aggressively beveled edges. I always enjoy a nice mix of finishes, and here, that mirrored surface blurs the edges so your eyes fix on the sun-brushed dial surround, allowing the rest of the case to melt away from view. It doesn’t make the watch look smaller, just tighter, and more focused.
Longitudinal brushing along the case sides further highlights the shiny section. A domed sapphire box crystal tops it off, providing the perfect vintage vibe.
While racing chronographs are not known for their high water resistance, Vaer hasn’t made a single watch rated for less than 100m, and they weren’t about to start now. If you can refrain from depressing the chronograph buttons when submerged, the R1’s gaskets and screw-down crown will keep it watertight.
Buyers get their choice of two straps. The review sample came with black tropic rubber and blue Horween leather, both featuring signed buckles. A khaki nylon pass-through and a jubilee-style bracelet are also options.
I was drawn to the leather. It’s a beautifully made strap, and the dark blue color and linen stitches complement the cream dial. I did not test the R1’s bracelet, but I am familiar with those available for other Vaer models and know they are high quality. I always advise folks to buy a watch’s matching bracelet when one is offered. You may not think you want it now, but you’ll thank me later.
The Vaer R1 is an undeniably sharp-looking piece with sophisticated and brilliantly executed case geometry. Like the best retro designs, it doesn’t look like a 50-year-old watch but like a watch that very easily could have been sold 50 years ago. Better still, it has all the present-day functionality you could want. And best of all, Vaer sells it for just $399 (take 10% off if you sign up on their site). Head on over to vaerwatches.com and see for yourself.
