Today I have a pair of Yema Urban Field watches, which begs the question, what is an “Urban Field” exactly? There are few fields in urban spaces, and those seeking outdoorsy adventures usually head away from cities, not toward them. That said, many things built for the wilderness work just as well in the concrete jungle. Better even, because you get to enjoy them without the inconvenience of being in the middle of nowhere. Yeah, that’s right. I’m a city guy. Sue me.
Yema has done some wonderful throwback pieces in recent years, like the Wristmasters I reviewed here. With the new Urban Field, they followed the welcome downsizing trend, offering it in 40mm and 37.5mm cases. Both of my samples were the smaller of the two, and I was immensely pleased.
The case itself is a scant 7.8mm thick. If you include the domed crystal, it only raises it to 10.2mm. That is dress watch territory. Couple that with a 45mm lug-to-lug length and a 20mm strap, and you’ve got proportions that would have been right on target for a men’s watch in the late 60s or early 70s. They are also quite fetching on my 6.75″ wrist.
Yema says the new model was inspired by the easy legibility of military watches and is intended to move easily from everyday wear to more formal dress. The military connection is readily apparent in the Urban Field’s dial, starting with the central crosshair and moving on to the large numbers and markers and prominent white minutes/seconds track, both printed with so many layers of lume that they provide a satisfying degree of dimension.
Even the polished dauphine hands, pretty though they may be, are not out of step with the watch’s theme, especially given the useful dose of lume they carry.
The dial is sandblasted, and color options include blue, sand, and white, in addition to the green and dark gray I reviewed. I appreciate the way the review samples departed from the usual palette. The gray hints at black but is decidedly charcoal in all but the lowest light conditions, and the green displays a range of olive tones throughout the day. Most unexpectedly, both show a touch of shimmer in the right light that creates an almost metallic effect.
The case is arguably the most dressy aspect of the watch, and with its polished surface, slim profile, and tapered lugs, it certainly seems th eb. Yet, it still makes sense as a tool watch, at least in the vintage sense. While current military (or at least military-inspired) watches generally have burly cases and low-glare finishes, the original US government-spec A-11 was small and shiny, as were many of its contemporaries. Historically speaking, there is no reason why this case would not have been mil-spec, especially with that large crown at 3 o’clock to remind you of its utilitarian roots.
Vintage vibes are great, of course, but watches have vastly improved in the past 50 years, and the Yema is a prime example of this. It boasts 100m water resistance, a double-domed sapphire crystal, and BGW9 SuperLuminova, giving it a level of durability its ancestors could only dream about.
“Mechanique” on the dial signals a hand-wound movement inside. To my eye, retro watch designs must be small and thin. Many brands get the former right but compromise on the latter when they select an automatic movement. The fact is, a rotor takes up valuable space. In the Urban Field, a manual Sellita SW210-1b Élaboré Décoré keeps it wafer-thin. This 19-jewel, 28.8k bph movement boasts blued screws, Geneva stripes, and custom engraving, all of which you can enjoy through the exhibition window.
The Urban Field’s strap and bracelet options are among the more interesting I’ve seen lately. The first is what Yema calls their military-style bracelet. I did not sample this one, but the photos show a more refined interpretation of an old Bonklip with its polished bar-type links and straight ends.
Option two is a leather strap. You can’t go wrong with this one. It is 20/18mm, pebble-grained, color-matched to the dial with contrasting stitching and a signed buckle. This would be my top choice as I tend to gravitate to straps over bracelets. It suits the watch and allows maximum versatility in your wardrobe.
The final choice is a flat beads-of-rice. I absolutely love this one — but not on this watch. Each link comprises five oval segments, four across and two in between, that drop down to catch the next in the chain (the two in the center are fused). Unlike the military style, it has fitted end links. Articulation and comfort are excellent. The polished tops and sides sparkle when you move. A low-profile butterfly deployant clasp secures it. The bracelet is beautifully made, stunning to look at, a delight to wear, and a great match for the case.
So, what is my problem? It’s too nice. I cannot reconcile the way this bracelet looks with that dial. Sure, the Urban Field spiffed up the field watch face with those dapper dauphine hands, and many traditionally outdoorsy dial layouts have been repurposed for less rugged watches over the years (the Rolex Explorer springs to mind here). Still, the Urban Explorer’s index is too prominent a feature to dress up. I like the dial and the bracelet, just not together.
The Yema Urban Field is available for pre-order now for $949 on leather, $999 on the military bracelet, and $1,129 on the beads-of-rice. All are fine choices, although I would love to see a variant with a more formal dial that could make the best use of that excellent flat-link bracelet.
You can place your order at yema.com. Deliveries are expected in July.
