One does not generally think of 1973 as being the pinnacle of fashion. Bellbottoms were in, lapels were enormous, and my parents saw fit to send me into the world wearing v-neck sweater vests and plaid pants. Still, there were some bright spots. In the early 1970s, watch designers enjoyed a burst of creative freedom, experimenting with shapes and colors in ways that resonate to this day. One such winner was the Bulova Jet Star, now revamped and reissued as a limited edition for its 50th birthday.
The original Jet Stars included a range of distinctive cases and dials fitted with automatic movements. For the reissues, Bulova reimagined an all-new yet suitably groovy watch that would have looked right at home in their 1973 catalog and powered it with the legendary Precisionist quartz. You mechanical movement snobs dare not turn your noses up at that last bit; the NM50 Precisionist is an 8-jewel marvel with a 3-pronged quartz crystal that is accurate to 5 seconds a month as it hums along at a buttery-smooth 262kHz or 16 times per second.
There is a lot to love about this watch, but the case steals the show. Measuring 40mm wide and 45.5mm long, its tonneau shape is aggressively faceted with brushed and mirror-polished surfaces defined by crisp edges. I’d expect nothing less than top-quality finishing from a company like Bulova, but it is impressive nonetheless. A fixed, polished bezel caps it off and frames a gloriously tall domed sapphire crystal, bringing the overall height to 12.5mm.
It’s a strikingly handsome case, complemented by an equally well-executed 20mm bracelet of an uncommon shape and configuration with a three-pronged link joined by a pair of square centers. Each segment is short, providing smooth articulation. It drapes comfortably over your wrist and looks fabulous, its brushed and polished finishes echoing those of the case. A butterfly deployant clasp allows seamless continuity and a sleek profile.
On my 6.75″ wrist, the case and bracelet combination felt as good as it looked. Maybe it’s a tad larger than its swinging 70s ancestors, but it nails the vintage vibe. Bulova offers leather straps as well. I did not test one, but it would be blue with red stitching for this model, and I’m sure it is quite lovely, but I don’t think I could be convinced to give up that bracelet. It’s perfect. Of course, if you want to swap the bracelet for a strap, quick-release pins in the end links will make it easy.
Bulova offers the Jet Star in three variants: a dark red dial on a bracelet, and a funky gold case with a brown leather strap and an ombre butterscotch dial, and this silver sunburst limited edition with patriotic blue and red accents and both bracelet and strap. All three are charming. I love the way the silver sunray appears to extend beyond the confines of the bezel and out across the radially brushed top surface of the case.
Applied markers with chiseled ends offer a hint of color echoing that of the hands and index. Dial text is kept to an absolute minimum: the Bulova name on top, a bicolor Precisionist infinity logo, and that impressive movement frequency below. The 3 o’clock date window wears a proper, polished frame. Like the rest of the watch, the face is charmingly retro.
What is not retro at all is the lume. Bulova gave us a channel of the stuff in the hands and on pips capping each hour marker. The Jet Star is hardly a lume monster. After all, the fill area isn’t that large; however, with a water resistance rating of 50m, it’s not a tactical or dive watch. The glow is more than sufficient for the sort of smartly-dressed occasions this watch would complement. It is also infinitely better than the tired lume you are likely to find on an original Jet Star.
Bulova has been on a roll these past few years. Among others, they reissued the iconic Lunar Pilot and Oceanographer “Devil Diver,” launched the never-issued Mil-SHIPS prototype, and treated us to a stunning collection of 1960s dress watches under the Accutron label. I love that they are willing to dip into their remarkable archives and stir things up a bit to meet our modern expectations. The Jet Star continues that string of success. It’s a charming piece that faithfully channels the best elements of its era in a manner that still feels fresh in 2023.
The Bulova Jet Star Limited Edition sells for $695 at Bulova.com. The other non-limited variants are $595. Bear in mind they set the limit at 7300 units, so it should not be all that difficult to find one for yourself. I highly recommend that you do.
