Bell & Ross’s “Urban Instrument” line marries the brand’s signature aviation gauge design to an integrated sports watch case. The line started with the classic BR05 Auto, a three-hander with a date. Next, they added the watch world’s most loved complication to create the BR05 GMT. It was just a matter of time before a chronograph version was to appear, and that is the incarnation I have in hand for this review, the Bell and Ross BR05 Chrono Green Steel.
The famed French brand has long produced capable tool watches with uniquely attractive, military aesthetics, and while they have not abandoned the signature aircraft instrument look, they have been willing to take it into new directions, broadening the brand’s appeal. In the case of the BR05, the result is a chic interpretation of the iconic BR03’s style, with rounded corners, a polished bezel edge, and of course, a case that flows seamlessly into its bracelet. Even the trademark exposed screws seem more fashionable than industrial on this watch.
This is a watch with presence, and it won’t leave you indifferent. Part of this presence is attributable to its size. Today, 42mm is a common size for a men’s sports watch, but remember that a square case occupies much greater space than a round one, so the Bell & Ross looks and feels much bigger. Despite its size, the watch wears nicely on my 6.25-inch wrist. Part of that magic is that it is a perfect square with a compact 42mm length.
Wearing the watch, you cannot help but notice its 14.5mm thickness. Although the broad case carries it well, I would have appreciated it if they could have shaved a bit more. The BR05 wears a sapphire exhibition case back that I would have happily given up in favor of a trimmer, solid case back.
The BR05’s metal bracelet really makes the watch feel like one unified piece, but if you prefer a strap, Bell & Ross has one ready, and in green as well. I’ve tried some of these textured, soft rubber straps, and they looked and felt fantastic. As nice as the bracelet is, I actually preferred the full-green look.
The interaction of polished and brushed elements gives this three-part case a complex, sophisticated look. I particularly like the flat pushers, positioned right where the outer angle of the lugs meets the matching angles of the crown guards. That signed crown screws down for 100m water resistance.
Of all the BR05’s I’ve handed, this new green version is the most attractive. Yes, I enjoyed the blue and the black variations, as well as the Alpine F1 special edition, but the green spoke to me more. The sunburst dial is interrupted by the square subdials at 3 and 9. The color-matched date aperture at 4:30 works nicely; it is there when you want it but hard to spot when you don’t. Also note that the date is oriented straight up, a clever and uncommon touch.
The dial has a variety of finishes, from the matte chapter ring to the circular brushing on the subdials to the sunburst on the main dial; the BR05 is very sophisticated. The large, brushed 12 and 6 are impossible to miss. The bright white stem of the second hand gives way to a brushed counterweight that repeats the bull-nosed shape of the hands and markers. Finally, the rounded hands tie to the similarly-shaped bar markers, all filled with SuperLuminova. It is a full dial that comes together beautifully.
Chronographs are complex. Maybe not perpetual calendar complex, but still challenging. For the BR05, Bell & Ross partnered with Selitta to produce the BR-CAL.326 automatic. While I do wish it had more than a 38-hour power reserve, it worked beautifully, and I had no other complaints.
In conclusion, the BR05 Chronograph is an eye-catching beauty with a tough, tool-watch aesthetic in a stylish sports watch case. It is a unique approach, especially in chronograph form, creating a watch that looks like no other.
The Bell & Ross BR05 Chronograph is available now for $6,200 US on the rubber strap and $6,700 US with the stainless steel bracelet. For more information or to place an order, click here.
Technical Specifications
- MOVEMENT Calibre BR-CAL.326. Automatic mechanical.
- FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, central chronograph seconds.
- CASE 42 mm wide, 14.25 mm thick. Satin-polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight.
- DIAL Green sunray. Applique indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Satin-finished applique numerals. Metal skeletonised Super- LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.
- CRYSTAL Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
- WATER-RESISTANCE 100 metres.
- STRAP Satin-polished steel.
