Reviewing the Twelve from Christopher Ward has been a singular experience. I know there are plenty of reviews and videos on the internet about this new integrated-bracelet sports luxury watch. After all, this is the hottest category in watchmaking right now. You can find great offerings from notable brands such as the Nivada Gretchen with their F77 and Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80. Both of them are very attractive, but I now believe the Christopher Ward Twelve is the best watch in this category. It’s a brilliantly executed, “go anywhere, do anything” (GADA) watch — perhaps the best I’ve tried this year.
Christopher Ward appears to be making a habit of delivering delightful surprises because, just like the Bel Canto, the Twelve seemed to come out of nowhere.
Designed by Will Brackfield, the Twelve has been almost 2 years in the making. You will note some Gérald Genta influences in the watch, and it is no accident. Brackfield is quite open about the influence, and I quite enjoy the fresh approach he has brought to the piece while still paying homage to the man they call “the Picasso of watchmaking.”
Christopher Ward’s case designs have been exemplary these past few years. Indeed, their “lightcatcher” cases have long been favorites among The Time Bum’s reviewers. While the Twelves’s design references watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, it imitates neither, but rather, brings that distinctive 1970s aesthetic into the Christopher Ward fold.
The Twelve’s case is at once utilitarian and elegant. The barrel appears deceptively simple at first, then comes to life as you catch the reflections from the polished 12-sided bezel (dodecagonal) that gives the watch its name. It provides a perfect contrast to the brushed mid-case, itself brightened with polished bevels echoed on the long guards and crown.
Case dimensions are the key to comfort. With a 40mm diameter, 44.5mm length, and 9.95mm thickness, I’m sure you can already imagine how this watch wears. It was a flat and comfortable fit on my 6.25 inch wrist, with plenty of clearance on both sides. This trim case houses a Sellita SW200 that is nicely finished and displayed through a sapphire exhibition window. While it is pretty, I would have preferred the even slimmer profile that a closed case back would provide, however slight that difference may be.
I cannot discuss the case without also telling you about the bracelet since both are integral parts of The Twelve experience. The bracelet is comfortable and feels fluid, avoiding the stiff links that can often result from an integrated bracelet design. Just like the case, the bracelet is polished and brushed. It is superbly finished with no sharp edges or rattling links to detract. The butterfly clasp creates a seamless look, lending harmony to the overall composition.
An optional rubber strap keeps the integrated looks and adds an even sportier vibe. Although the bracelet is excellent, I found the rubber strap suited me better during this hot summer. I may eventually switch back as the weather cools, but indecision is not a problem as the quick-release mechanism makes such swaps very easy.
Integrated bracelet watches tend to feel bigger on the wrist as the end links do not bend as readily as other designs. As a consequence, the true lug-to-lug is always a bit larger, and the Twelve is no exception to this. While I appreciate the 40mm, I was pleased to learn that Christopher Ward announced a 36mm variant, which might be more suitable for those of us with smaller wrists.
The Twelve comes in an assortment of cool-toned colors: Glacier Blue, Nordic Blue, Basalt Grey, and Arctic White. There is also a titanium Twelve Chronometer with Astral Blue or Nebula Purple fumé dials. These titanium versions are 1mm thinner and boast COSC-certified, SW300-1 movements with an impressive 56 hours of power reserve.
My review sample was a Nordic Blue version, which I believe is the prettiest. Yes, I know it’s entirely subjective, but how can you be unaffected when you see the light dancing across the mesmerizing “twin-flags” texture on that radiant blue dial? Polished, brushed, and faceted markers add even more depth to this already lively dial. And do note how the shape of the faceted and brushed lancet hands complements that of the markers. All are filled with C1 SuperLuminova.
Finally, we have a subtle date complication at 6 o’clock. The disc is color-matched, as is its sharply finished beveled frame.
My time with the Twelve was a very pleasant experience indeed. Every moment exceeded my expectations. Even though the integrated bracelet sports watch is a familiar and, at the moment, immensely popular style, Christopher Ward has made it all its own, elevating the genre in the process. Unlike some of its competitors, The Twelve feels less like an affordable version of a vintage icon, and more like a newly-minted classic in its own right.
The Twelve (40mm and 36mm) will be available for $1,225 US on the bracelet or $995 US on the rubber strap. The Twelve (Ti) titanium retails for $1,825 US on a bracelet or $1,375 US with the rubber strap. Expect delivery of the 36mm in mid-September and the 40mm models in mid-November.
For more information, visit christopherward.com.
Technical Specifications
Size 40mm
Dial Colour Nordic Blue
Case Material Stainless steel
Height 9.95mm
Lug-to-Lug 44.5mm
Case Weight 65g
Weight inc. Strap 160g
Water Resistance 10 ATM (100m)
Movement Sellita SW200-1
Power Reserve 38 hours
Lume SLN X1 BL C1
