Everyone loves a good comeback story, and the watch world is full of them. Today, I am reviewing the newly revived Sheffield Allsport 1, a modern incarnation of a popular late 6os model.
Despite its British name, Sheffield was a Swiss brand formed in 1960. It entered the US market in 1967 with a range of models, a huge advertising budget, and a healthy retail distribution network. After a few short years, it became clear that Sheffield had wildly overextended itself. The Swiss Society for the Watch Industry took it over in 1971 and shuttered its factory by 1972.
If you are even remotely interested in vintage watches, you probably already know the original Sheffield Allsport. If you type “vintage Swiss watch” or vintage dive watch” into your eBay search, I guarantee several will pop up for sale. There were a few variants, but the most common was a handsome skin diver with a pronounced arrowhead hour hand, outward-pointing dart-shaped markers, Arabic numbers at the cardinal points, and a cyclops date. It ran a one-jewel, pin lever movement, and its chrome-plated, 36mm case (in the men’s version) was sealed for an impressive 100m water resistance.
Jay Turkbas got one when he was 11 years old. Yes, that very watch in the photo above. It was his faithful timepiece for years and also served as his inspiration when Jay, now a seasoned product developer and watch aficionado, decided to delve into the world of microbrand watch manufacturing. After acquiring the name, he set out to create a modern Allsport. Unlike other revivals like Wolbrook, he did not attempt to recreate the old one. Rather, he reimagined the watch as a modern, capable dive watch that channeled the spirit of the original. Oh, and he wanted to do it for a price comparable to the $13 his parents paid in 1970. Adjusted for inflation, that is about $100.
This is a challenging brief that requires some careful choices. First, the watch would be made in China because, like Switzerland in the 1960s, the country boasts a robust watchmaking industry, producing high-quality products for relatively low cost. Next was the movement. I know many of you are hoping I’ll tell you it was an automatic, but Jay settled on the Miyota 2035 quartz because of its cost and reliability. Considering that the original used a cheap pin lever mechanical movement, a quality quartz is a significant improvement.
Today’s watch buyers have higher expectations for their dive watches than they did in 1970, even if they are buying on a budget. Among these are a stainless steel case, a 200m water resistance rating, and a screw-down crown. Sheffield checks all the boxes and throws in an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal and SuperLuminova (Swiss formula on the hands, Japanese on the dial and bezel) for good measure.
The new case is a departure from the Sheffield’s of old. It’s a classic Submariner style with chunky lugs and crown guards, and an attractive combination of brushed and polished surfaces. Measuring 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 13mm thick, it has a burly, broad-shouldered air about it while still fitting nicely on my 6.75″ wrist.
Sheffield offers two bezel inserts. The review sample’s was steel featuring debossed and polished markers against a matte surface. While it looks sharp in the light of day, the low contrast motif suffers as things get dark. I did not bring the Allsport into the murky depths, but without so much as a lumed bezel pip to help you, I doubt it would fare any better than it did in the dark of dry land. That said, it looks cool, particularly with its polished edge.
Sheffield’s black insert is the polar opposite, with fully lumed markers on a black insert. If your plans call for nighttime activity, this is the one to get.
The bezel action was fine, clicking forward with sufficient resistance, and it remained secure and did not move out of position while I was wearing it. Oddly, it is a 48-click bezel like you might find on a GMT, and not the more common 60- or 120-click rotation you would expect on a diving watch.
Buyers can choose their Allsport in sun ray blue, or the dark gray shown here. Both have a very traditional diver’s layout with applied markers and polished hands. In a nod to the 1970 Allsport, an arrow markers the hours. A red lollipop second hand provides a pop of color. If you want that dial mounted upside-down, it’s no problem. Sheffield thoughtfully offers destro versions too.
It’s an attractive dial and an extremely safe design choice. It is also where I must levy most of my criticism because it’s a bit too safe. Aside from the arrow hand, there is nothing to connect it to the old brand. Sheffield used at least two lovely logos in their heyday, but here, it is rendered in a tasteful, yet unremarkable typeface. I believe it may be a lightweight version of Copperplate, but I couldn’t see the serifs without magnification. Similarly, the dots-and-bars markers are perfectly okay, but nothing we haven’t seen many times before. Finally, we really don’t need “Miyota 2035” on there.
Again, nothing about the dial is offensive; it is just a missed opportunity to stand out in the very crowded dive watch marketplace.
A proper dive watch needs a dive-worthy strap, and the Sheffield Allsport delivers with modern FKM rubber in a classic tropic style. I’ve said before that once you try FKM, you won’t go back to rubber or silicone. It is a clearly superior material in both comfort and lint resistance. The Allsport’s is fitted with convenient quick-release pins, which is an added bonus given that the case has drilled lugs.
So, has Jay met his goal? Considering that he delivered a new 200m Sheffield Allsport on FKM for just $108, I’d say yes. This is a fine start for the revived brand. I’m curious to see what he does next, and I hope it involves leaning into the Sheffield design archives a bit harder.
To find out more about Sheffield and the new Allsport 1, visit sheffieldwatches.com.
