All that glitters is not gold; sometimes it’s PVD-coated stainless steel, but hey, at least it still glitters. Tissot is one of the oldest Swiss watch brands, operating out of Le Locle, Switzerland, and is part of the far-reaching Swatch Group along with the likes of Omega, Longines, Blancpain, and, of course, Swatch itself. Tissot has been having a bit of a renaissance lately: starting in 2021, the brand began reissuing their PRX line, a faithful recreation of the watch that originally debuted in 1978. The brand capitalized on the integrated bracelet sports watch craze then, and they are doing so again now, with models like the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm.
Lauren reviewed the first wave of the reissued PRX quartz in its modernized 40mm size here, and had a lot of good things to say about it. Like many others, I kept my fingers crossed that Tissot would launch a smaller version more faithful to the original 1978 model’s proportions. I had been holding out hope for a 38mm or perhaps even a 37mm, but this year, they went all the way back to the 1970s and launched several models in a 35mm case. I’ve heard some people lamenting the resurgence of the integrated bracelet watch and saying it’s a fad that will soon pass. Maybe it will, and maybe it won’t, but Tissot is among the brands most effectively capitalizing on the style’s popularity and in a price bracket that is pretty hard to beat.
This recent PRX release (model T137.207.33.021.00) is delightfully anachronistic, in yellow gold with a gold waffle dial, and a 35mm case that is authentically throwback. The yellow gold is, of course, only PVD-coated stainless steel, but Tissot managed to capture the luster of gold remarkably well, especially when the watch’s contrasting finishes catch the light. It was released alongside a stainless steel version with an ice-blue dial that is considerably more subdued. As they usually do, Tissot went all out with options from 35mm up to 42mm chronographs. Their offering includes quartz and automatic versions in a multitude of colors and dial finishes. There is even one featuring an 18k gold bezel and diamond indices. Hell, they released digital options hot on the heels of the 35mm models, though I’m a little shaky on the value proposition for those.
I feel compelled to acknowledge that I’m a fan of Tissot (mostly their vintage back catalog), but I’m also the first to admit their finishing is often only middle of the road. Not so with the PRX, which features clean, crisp lines, even brushing, and feels very tightly assembled. My biggest fear before trying it on was the bracelet. At this price point, I was concerned it would be a squeaky, jangly mess, but Tissot nailed it. The bracelet is incredibly comfortable, and the hairy-wristed among you can rest easy; in all my time with it, I have not had it catch me once. It also includes half links for a perfect fit and conforms nicely to the wrist.
The 35mm tonneau case really suits the PRX, and not just because of its match to the dimensions of the original. Because of the integrated bracelet’s design and the non-articulating endlinks, the 40mm always felt like it wore quite a bit larger than its specs would indicate. This newer, smaller-diameter edition might not suit buyers who prefer a larger watch, but it certainly gives it a bit more versatility for people with a variety of wrist sizes. Wrist presence doesn’t suffer with the downsizing, either, if the admiring comments and inquiries I got were any indication. I certainly found myself looking at it quite a bit and was dazzled each time I did.
The 10.9mm thickness is suitable for a dress watch, easily disappearing under a shirt cuff or jacket sleeve. Around the back is an exhibition caseback that shows off the Powermatic 80.111 movement. It’s a 23-jewel self-winding movement with hacking and hand-winding, and its claim to fame is its 80-hour power reserve. In truth, the movement is a derivative of the ETA C07.111. It’s a dynamite movement, especially for under $1000. While it’s not a decorated movement, aside from Tissot’s distinctive wave-patterned rotor, it’s pretty enough to pass muster, and I’m not so jaded that I can’t enjoy the dance of a balance wheel.
The crown is a good size for the watch, compact without being difficult to grip or pull out. It does not screw down, but Tissot still claims 100m water resistance. The matte finish on the crown’s cap stands out as a little odd when compared to the rest of the case, but it’s not much of a distraction.
The PRX’s defining feature is also possibly its most polarizing: the integrated bracelet. It’s a major part of the PRX’s visual identity and gives it a sense of cohesiveness that many bracelets lack at this price point; however, it’s not as easy to swap bracelets and straps as a more conventional lug box would allow. There are options, but you’ll have to be deliberate about finding them. This may seem like an unnecessary warning, seeing as “integrated bracelet” is part of the mission brief, but I’ve run into more than a few would-be buyers – watch connoisseurs and casual fans alike – who were put off by that design choice.
I did not expect to enjoy the gold-on-gold look as much as I do. It’s a style I’ve always found stuffy in a try-too-hard sort of way, but the way this watch plays with light forced me to set aside my reservations. The textured dial, the case, and the bracelet all combine to make this watch an eye-catcher in just about any light.
The PVD finish imparts a texture that sits at the intersection of matte and glossy. In practice, PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating is able to provide considerably more scratch resistance than typical plating but not as much as a DLC (diamond-like coating) treatment. That said, don’t expect the PRX to be scratchproof. In my time with it, it picked up a few minor battle scars, predominantly around the hidden butterfly clasp where the wrist rests. PVD coating is used fairly frequently in the world of watches, but I’ve rarely seen it done so well or so evenly. Side note: if you’re even remotely interested in manufacturing or materials science, I encourage you to watch some videos on the PVD coating process.
The PRX is a rare watch where the dial isn’t necessarily the main draw, but it is distinctive. The waffle dial is much more interesting than it seems at first glance. In shifting light, the squares turn from gleaming gold to mother of pearl to chocolate brown. The design might be polarizing to some, as the waffle pattern can appear quite busy. In general, my eye is drawn to Tissot’s brushed options (I’m particularly taken by the chocolate brown dial with the 18k gold bezel 40mm version). I must say, however, that the waffle dial quite suits the retro nature of the PRX.
Again, the finishing here continues to impress, with crisp edges and virtually no visible imperfections, even under a macro lens. The baton handset is especially clean, as is the date window frame, both of which are details over which Tissot occasionally stumbles. Dial text is minimal and occasionally gets lost against the grid: “Tissot 1853” is printed in relief at the top of the dial, and “PRX Powermatic 80” on the bottom, as well as the obligatory “Swiss Made” along the edge of the sloped, brushed rehaut at 6 o’clock.
The handset and the slim, applied bar hour markers are lumed, and this is one of the few underwhelming features of the PRX: the lume could definitely be better. It’s legible but not very bright, and it fades relatively quickly. For a timepiece on the dressier end of the sport watch spectrum, I’ll give it a passing grade, but it’s a surprising letdown on such an otherwise well-executed watch.
Wearing the Tissot PRX is hardly a transformative experience, but it’s a great watch with few real caveats. Despite its flashy appearance, its diminutive size and weight let you forget about it, at least until it peeks out from under your sleeve and dazzles you all over again. It’s not a style that will appeal to everyone, but it certainly surprised me with its versatility. It also had one more surprise up its sleeve: far from feeling old-fashioned in its design, it feels playful, funky, and fresh.
If you’re interested in the Tissot PRX T137.207.33.021.00, it can be found on the Tissot website for $825 US, a pretty reasonable sum for such a watch. The quartz versions can be had for considerably less and are equally attractive and equally funky.
