We are now in the last weeks of 2023, the Year of the GMT, so it is only fitting that I close out the year with one more: the Vario Empire Seasons True GMT. If you are lucky enough to be in Washington, D.C., for the District Time show on March 2 and 3, 2024, you can meet Ivan Chua, Vario’s owner and designer, and ask him about it yourself. Until then, you will have to make do with my review.
This is Vario’s fourth variation on the Empire series, which includes the original three-hand, the Empire Chronograph, and the Empire Seasons that introduced the guillioché sector dial now shared with the GMT.
For the uninitiated, the Vario Empire is a dress watch in a modern interpretation of an Art Deco design, which is to say, while it neither pays homage to any particular watch nor replicates a style that would have been worn at that time (watches in the 20s and 30s were tiny), it convincingly evokes the Art Deco streamline moderne school of design.
This aesthetic is reflected most prominently in the watch’s fabulous brushed and polished case, which measures 38mm wide, 46mm long, and 12mm thick with a stepped bezel and angular lugs that are cleanly delineated from the barrel. It may be larger than a Gatsby-era dress watch, but it is in line with most modern pieces, albeit with a slightly sporty flair underscored by drilled lugs, an onion crown, and a scratch-resistant coating.
On my 6.75″ wrist, the mid-sized Empire case is a perfect fit; it has a bit more presence than a classic dress watch, but it is not so large that it would look out of place with a suit and tie.
Like other Empires, the GMT shows a line drawing of the Empire State Building alone with the requisite specifications: sapphire crystal, 5ATM water resistance (better than most dress pieces), and now, “Made In Japan.” In an industry where nearly every watch in this market segment is manufactured in China, a Japanese-made watch is a curiosity.
Behind that lid is a Miyota 9075 automatic GMT. Miyota calls it a True GMT because, like the famed Rolex GMT, the second hour hand is independently adjustable, jumping to the required position. In other respects, it is similar to the rest of the Miyota 9000 series: 28.8k bph, 24 jewels, a 42+ hour power reserve, and Parashock protection.
As mentioned above, the GMT shares its dial layout with the three-hander. It gains a 24-hour index on a raised central ring, which, along with the stylized applied numbers and fully skeletonized hands, gives the GMT a sense of depth that works nicely with the light playing off the textured surfaces below. The “Seasons” of this edition include Winter White, Autumn Salmon, Spring Green, and the Summer Blue shown here.
One might expect a dress watch to have polished hands and markers. Such is not the case on the Empire GMT, and I am glad for it. Reflective, low-contrast elements would have disappeared against the bright dials, where the sober black looks appropriately stately while still legible.
I was surprised to see that Vario lumed the GMT hand’s arrowhead. It is a first for the Empire series and uncommon for a dress watch, although, now that I think of it, so is a GMT function. It works well to differentiate the hand, as it otherwise would have been lost as just another black line. It is less useful at night because it is the only spot of lume on the dial. Still, it’s a fun touch.
Vario provides the watch with both a leather strap and a seven-link bracelet. The strap is Vario’s excellent Vintage Italian Leather, which I have covered before. On the Empire, the 3mm thick strap tapers from 20mm to 16mm at the buckle. The color is rich and has a slight pull-up effect when bent. Quick-release pins are standard. I own several and have been pleased with their comfort and durability. You can pick up some extras for your other watches a la carte for $46 each.
The bracelet was new to me and is a welcome addition to the Empire collection. Brushed, polished, and scratch-coated like the case, it tapers from 20mm to 18mm at its elegantly low profile butterfly deployant clasp. Articulation is excellent, and half-links ensure a proper fit. Integrated springbars allow tool-free removal. As much as I liked the Empires on straps, I was struck by how well the bracelet complements the case and completes the watch. It fits all of the Empire range and can be purchased separately for $68.
The Vario Empire Seasons True GMT is available now for $698, including a bracelet and strap. Through December, you can take 8% off with code EMPIRE GMT8. Only 60 pieces of each variant will be produced, and if the last Seasons collection is any indication, you should not wait around. All of those sold out, and I fully expect the Seasons GMT to disappear quickly, too.
For more information or to place your order, visit vario.sg.
