A young microbrand like the Galvin Watch Co. could be forgiven if they played it safe with their third release. After all, their debut Alku, and their sophomore effort, the Loimu (both of which I reviewed), had plenty of unique touches and personality but were otherwise fairly versatile and traditional. For their latest model, the Suvi, Galvin swings for the fences with a potentially more polarizing but much more personal effort. When founder Susan Galvin offered a pair of prototypes to review before the launch later this month, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity.
Rectangular and tonneau watches are having something of a resurgence that has extended to the microbrand space. However, where most of those pieces are focusing on vintage dimensions and aesthetics, the Galvin Suvi presents an interesting mashup of classic design language and modern sensibilities.
At 33mm by 40mm and 11mm thick, the Suvi wears larger than the dimensions alone would suggest, for a bold, brash look. It will fit beneath a shirt cuff, but it’s made less for subtlety than for a style statement. Thankfully, the short, downward curving lugs and caseback hug the wrist and make it quite comfortable to wear. The closest comparison I can think of is the Cartier Tank Americaine, puffed up in a show of aggression.
Made of 316L stainless steel (including rose gold options), the Suvi is good for 50 meters of water resistance. The crown does not screw down, but I wouldn’t expect that in a dress watch. I’m fond of the crown’s corkscrew grip, and the size is very proportionate to the rest of the watch. However, I did find it a bit of a challenge to get a nail underneath to pull it out and set the time. One last detail: while unfilled on the prototypes I received, the mass-production signed crown caps will also feature an outer track color-matched to the dial of the watch.
The caseback is refreshingly devoid of specs text, just the serial number and the words “Assembled in Australia” – that’s right, did I mention that founder and watchmaker Susan Galvin will be assembling and regulating each watch in her workshop? The exhibition caseback also showcases the Miyota 9039 movement, which is nicely finished with Geneva stripes and a branded, skeletonized rotor that is color-matched to the case. It’s amazing what a rotor like this can do for an otherwise conventional off-the-shelf movement like the 9039, elevating its look considerably. That movement is a 24-jewel automatic featuring hacking and hand winding, and offers a 42-hour power reserve.
The Suvi is ready for spring with a nice array of pastel colors. Available will be the Lake (light blue), Barley (beige), Birch (light green), Lupine (a richer purple), and the two I was sent: the navy blue Midsummer Night and the pastel pink Strawberry Ice Cream. The cheerful colors and names are no surprise given the Loimu, Galvin’s previous launch, but they’re still a pleasing departure from the somber and overserious palettes of many brands.
Of the two samples I was sent, the Midsummer Night was my favorite and quite possibly my favorite of the whole collection. The contrast between the rose gold case, hands, and numerals and the Navy dial and strap was quite attractive, and I could see this being a great choice for a dress watch that doesn’t sacrifice presence.
The Strawberry Ice Cream is much more playful and a great summer watch as well as a good choice for anyone who wants to accentuate their look with pops of color. Even my non-watch-obsessed coworkers commented on it. In a departure from my usual tastes, I am also quite taken by the beige Barley, which offers an effervescent option that will still appeal to more conventional tastes. Regardless of the color, the Suvi has a strong sense of visual cohesion and intentional design and it is clear that no corners were cut in the design or manufacture.
Beneath the AR-coated and gracefully curved sapphire crystal, the sector dial offers a smooth matte outer edge that holds the applied numerals and the printed hour and minute tracks, while the center of the dial is finely textured. This creates a sense of depth and dynamism on what might have otherwise been a sterile-feeling dial. Early photos made me curious about the choice to employ Breguet-inspired hour hands and numerals, but in person, I think they suit the watch very well. Apart from the Galvin G logo, the dial is mercifully free of text or a date window. It’s a welcome departure from the modern convention of stuffing as much identifying information on a dial as possible. The dial is also free of any lume, once again settling the Suvi squarely in the dress watch category.
Galvin will offer the Suvi on a variety of leather straps. The brown suede on the Strawberry Ice Cream was wonderfully supple, but I preferred the padded navy that accompanied the Midsummer Night and admired how well it matched the dial, although it was a bit stiff out of the box. Each strap will also feature a simple, elegant pin buckle engraved with the Galvin logo. Do note: the short lugs could pose a challenge for straps with thicker padding around the springbars and likely mean that many third-party bracelets are off the table.
The Suvi is a striking watch and attractive from any angle. While my own tastes skew toward more tool- and sport-oriented watches, I nevertheless found myself quite taken with the Suvi’s design, and it was hard to say goodbye when my time with it came to an end. It’s a watch that imparts a classic, dressy flair while still being bold enough and fun enough to wear in more casual settings. It may not be a piece I would see myself wearing day to day, but it is absolutely worth considering for anyone looking to add a dress watch to the collection or just for a fun piece that stands out from the endless parade of dive and sport watches.
It’s very reasonably priced at $450 USD, though Kickstarter backers will be able to purchase it at a discount. The Galvin Suvi will launch on Kickstarter on April 13th, 2024. Visit the Galvin Watch Company site to sign up to learn more or browse their other collections.
