Gnomon Watches has been a big name in the watch space for years. The Singaporean company sells everything from Alpina to Yema, and they know watches. It came as little surprise when they decided to launch their own brand, Hitori. Loren already reviewed their Yoshino model last year and came away impressed despite, or perhaps because of, its resemblance to Grand Seiko for a fraction of the price. For this review, I sampled the Hitori Habuka.
Let’s get the comparison out of the way: the new Snow White Hitori Habuka is a different watch altogether, but it still hews closely to the Grand Seiko design language while pulling a few tricks to establish its own identity. Sure, it would be easy to label this as a discount Snowflake and move on, but that would be missing out.
The 39mm 316L stainless steel case features nice brushing throughout, with polished chamfers along the edges. The lugs curve gracefully but sharply downward and, coupled with the bracelet’s female end links, make this a great fit for wrists of all sizes. The watch is 46mm lug to lug, 11.5mm thick, and good for 100 meters of water resistance.
The coin-edged, screw-down crown is nicely proportioned to the rest of the case and is capped with a character from the Hitori logo. The crown cap is noticeably rough to the touch but otherwise the Habuka features satin and polished finishing that is pleasing to both eye and fingertip. That finishing is carried through to the tapered, three-link bracelet, which is comfortable if a bit jangly. Apart from the tool-adjustable milled clasp with a nicely embossed foldover lock, the bracelet also features quick-release springbars. Mercifully, the bracelet uses screwed links for resizing, making getting the perfect fit a breeze. Altogether, the bracelet feels a bit heavier duty than the Habuka really needs, but it suits the watch’s sportier aspirations.
Through the exhibition caseback, circumscribed with some of the smallest specifications text I’ve ever seen, the Seiko NH35 movement is visible. It’s a movement we know and love, economical and reliable, with 24 jewels, hand-winding and hacking, and a 21,600 beat rate. It’s not going to win any awards for finishing, but the bridge plates are nicely brushed, and Hitori opted for a blue rotor that suits the wintry color palette.
The Hitori Habuka comes in a variety of colors inspired by nature. Snow White and Graphite Black are the more conservative options, but there are blues and greens in there, as well. For once, I actually prefer the more understated color schemes, particularly the Graphite Black, though the light blue Lake Aoki and lime green Hakone are quite attractive, as well. The Snow White loaner features a stark white, textured dial that evokes a field of windblown snow, surrounded by an ice-blue sloped rehaut and minute track.
The faceted applied indices have a glossy finish that catches the light without being distracting, as do the dauphine hands. The Habuka also features a dark blue seconds hand to provide some contrast. There’s an obligatory 3 o’clock date window, but it’s framed to match the indices, and the white date wheel is a near-perfect match for the dial. The dial texture that defines the Habuka is noticeable but stops short of being ostentatious or affecting legibility. It is worth noting that the Habuka does not feature any lume. While this is a sport watch, it leans dressier, so this is a sensible tradeoff, though it might be a turnoff for some.
As is often the case with a dial like this, I can’t help putting it under a macro lens to get a better look at it. The snowy texture features smooth, even brushing strokes, and the faceted indices and the brand’s logo really pop against that background. Of course, there are some imperfections: a few very faint scratches on the dauphine hands and a slight graininess to the indices, but at a price point of less than $400, those are scarcely deterrents. Instead, I was left impressed by the overall attention to detail and general crispness of the dial.
I don’t believe that high-priced luxury brands should be the gatekeepers of design. Though the Habuka dips in and out of Grand Seiko’s design ethos, it does so at a fraction of the price while striving to channel its own identity. The Habuka isn’t going to fool anyone into thinking it’s a luxury watch up close, but it isn’t trying to. Where it succeeds is as an attractively priced sport watch that can double as a dress piece featuring a distinctive conversation starter of a dial.
The Hitori Habuka is available at Gnomon Watches now and retails for $357 USD, which is a solid deal. The Habuka is an attractive timepiece that is as at home shoveling snow as it is in a board room. Now that Hitori has proven they can put out a nicely finished, well-executed, and cohesive product, I would love to see them put out something that really speaks to who they are. Singapore is already a haven for independent watch brands, and I could see Hitori establishing a strong identity alongside its neighbors. I’ll be eagerly watching to see what they put out next. Visit their website at www.gnomonwatches.com to view the rest of the Hitori line.
