Today, Toronto’s Fleux Watches launched the FLX003. As you might have already guessed, it is the brand’s third model. Like the 002 and 001 before it, the 003 is a spin on the vintage skin diver design. I’m a longtime fan of the neo-retro aesthetic and was eager to get my hands on a Fleux after admiring an FLX002 on a friend’s wrist last year.
The FLX003 was modeled after the Omega Seamaster 300 watch Ref. 165.024 “big triangle” originally commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) in the late ’60s. All the key Seamaster 300 features were retained, like the matte black dial, thick bar markers, and small Arabic numbers at 3/6/9, but with the addition of a big – and, I mean, huge – triangle. It seems the MoD wanted no ambiguity about that 12 o’clock position. You will have no trouble identifying it at a quick glance. Indeed, I suspect you can see it from orbit.
Fleux adopted the same MoD layout and improved on the original by fitting irresistible broad arrow hands like those of a 1950s vintage Seamaster or the current Omega Seamaster 300 Heritage Collection.
Those markers are surprisingly thick, rising far enough to display cleanly defined sides and edges that are quite satisfying to see. By contrast, the numbers, logo, and remaining text elements are small and crisply rendered in a sparse, lightweight typeface. Old Radium C3 Super-LumiNova provides both the predominant color and an impressive burst of lume.
Only the hands, markers, and bezel triangle get the glow, but it’s more than enough. You can’t miss that massive wedge.
Fleux relied on their existing skin diver case, and rightly so. At 38mm wide and 47mm long, it slots neatly into both classic diver and modern mid-size proportions. It is 14mm thick, but this includes the tall Hesalite crystal. Yes, Hesalite! Longtime readers will know my weakness for domed acrylic. Fleux took its vintage design brief seriously and gave the watch the period-correct plastic it deserved.
Pronounced curvature and deep undercuts along the bottom of the barrel and under the bezel enhance its impression of slimness. Circular brushing on top contrasts with longitudinal brushing along the sides, and the two competing planes get a glimmer of polish from the whisper of a chamfer that runs along the outer edge. It’s a sleek, contemporary look that would have seemed right at home in 1970 as well.
Inside is a no-date Seiko NH38A movement (24 jewels, 21.6k bph, 41-hour power reserve). It’s a solid, economical choice for any tool watch.
The FLX003 carries a 200m water resistance rating, and the crown screws down. I’m pleased to report that they got its proportions exactly right. The polished and signed crown is large enough to afford comfortable operation yet not so big that it ruins the otherwise trim lines of the case.
Back in the day, the narrow bezel insert would have been Bakelite, but that is a trickier proposition today. Instead, the watch wears engraved aluminum with a similarly glossy finish. Like the dial text, the bezel’s markings are fine-lined.
Interestingly, Fleux has fitted a friction bezel. While it is the right choice for period authenticity, it is uncommon among the current crop of divers. Its action is perfectly smooth and sufficiently tight to provide some reassurance. Would I trust it not to get bumped out of position while scuba diving? Likely not, but then again, we’ll never know since I never do any such thing. My divers rarely descend to more than kitchen sink depth. I suspect this is also the case for the vast majority of dive watches sold. Still, it’s good to know that the watch has the capacity for undersea adventure, even if I do not.
I would more likely wear the FLX003 on excursions downtown than down on the reef, and as you can see below, it would look damn good. I have come the think that 38mm watches are the best fit for my 6.75″ wrist, and the Fleux certainly strengthens my belief.
A diver needs a water-resistant strap, so Fleux delivers one in the form of a 20mm SEAQUAL sailcloth spun from recycled marine plastic. It looks and feels great, and it’s good to know that what is on your wrist is no longer in the ocean. Leather lining and quick-release pins finish it off and it secures with a brushed and signed 16mm buckle.
The Fleux FLX003 is a practical and beautifully executed watch that captures the best aspects of the classic skin diver era in a sophisticated and thoroughly contemporary package. That is no mean feat, particularly when the finished product sells for just $499.
I like what Fleux is doing, and the FLX003 is a satisfying next step in the brand’s journey. Head over to fleuxwatchs.com and check them out for yourself.
