I did not have the chance to review Neotype’s first release, the LM01, but I certainly took notice. I admired the way this new French brand had tastefully updated the traditional dive watch formula and was excited to see what they would do next. That next release was the appropriately named LM02 that I am reviewing today.
The LM02 is a 41mm chronograph powered by Seiko’s wildly popular MechaQuartz, a unit that mates mechanical and quartz components to provide an analog feel on a battery-driven budget. The VK64 variant used here has 60-minute and 24-hour subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock. Has anyone ever needed a 24-hour timer? Probably not. Does it matter? Also, no. I am not ashamed to admit that my relationship with all but the most basic watch complications is based on aesthetics and curiosity, not practicality. For me, the joy of the MechaQuartz lies in the satisfying click of its buttons and snap-back reset.
Neotype released four LM02s that include brushed stainless or PVD black cases and BGW9 or Old Radium lume. All have matte black dials. I selected a black and Old radium LM02 Type D because while the Types A-C are perfectly handsome, I have a thing for black and tan. I know people will read that and immediately think “fauxtina,” and I get it. I understand the school of thought that holds that aging should be earned and not manufactured. I don’t agree with it, but I understand it. However, as you can see here, there is nothing particularly retro-styled about the LM02. It is every bit a 21st-century watch; it’s just that the warmer tan lume imparts a touch of pleasant mellowness, whereas the high-contrast white is crisper and more aggressive. If you prefer that, choose accordingly.
The LM02’s case is exactly what I want in a tool watch. It’s got a no-nonsense matte finish, sharp angles, sheer case sides, and a big crown. Lots of similar watches share those traits. What makes the Neotype special is how they streamlined those essentials. Notice the case’s pronounced curvature and the smooth upward sweep of those crown guards. The signed, screw-down crown is 8mm wide but not excessively tall, so it offers excellent grip without undue protrusion. You will want that when you are screwing it down to maintain the LM02’s 200m water resistance. Yes, 200m. Neotype made this watch to be used by more serious advenurers than me. Don’t worry about accidentally depressing those chrono buttons while submerged; they screw down too. See the photo below with the upper button in the open position and the bottom one closed.
Measuring 48.5mm long and 13.8mm thick, you might expect the watch to be a real lump when worn, yet nothing could be further from the truth. While it certainly filled out my 6.75″ wrist, it looked and felt purposeful, not overwhelming. The aforementioned curves present a low profile, dropping the lugs for a comfortable fit. Similarly, the fixed bezel drops away from that double-domed sapphire crystal and terminates at a narrow edge with a steep undercut. I wouldn’t go so far as to say that the LM02 is a slim watch, but where its proportions make the case sound bricklike, it is actually quite sophisticated in person.
The Neotype LM02’s dial features a textured matte surface, sandwich construction, post hands, and a number-free “dots and bars” layout. Everything is sharply rendered down to the infinitesimal 1/5-second index on the rehaut. Five layers of antireflective coating ensure a clear view.
It is reminiscent of certain vintage Panerai, an association heightened by the creamy lume on this model. And yet, it is not old-fashioned. The handsome sans-serif typeface, sparse markings on the 24-hour dial, and a bead-blasted and engraved ceramic bezel work with the saucerlike case to make the LM02 appear absolutely contemporary. Traditional design elements and vintage lume be damned; this is a watch for 2024.
Speaking of lume, the application of the Super-LumiNova is outstanding. All the hands and needles get a dab, as does every finely incised mark on the tachymeter index. Just lovely.
The LM02’s underside is clean and businesslike. You’ll find no flowery inscriptions or fancy artwork, just the brand’s signature X mark, basic specifications, and serial number, in this case, a prototype’s 000.
Neotype’s rugged intentions for this watch are reflected in its straps: a 20mm FKM and a khaki nylon pass-through. Regular readers already know my prediction for FKM. As a strap material, synthetic fluoroelastomer rubber is vastly superior to the alternatives as it has the pliability of silicone but doesn’t attract lint. Neotype’s is a bespoke design aggressively ridged with a neatly beveled edge and the brand’s labels molded into the underside.
An engraved metal buckle (finished to match the case, of course) secures it.
For those who want a more military look, the khaki nylon is the way to go. I found it complemented the Old Radium quite well. Like the FKM, its hardware matches the case.
Neotype will produce only 75 of each of the 4 LM02 variants. Stainless steel finishes are $581, and the PVD black models are $627. For that price, you will receive a brilliantly executed, finely constructed watch that absolutely nails its design brief. The Neotype LM02 is familiar but not frumpy, new but not a novelty. It is a solid tool that will work hard and look dashing for years to come.
I strongly suggest you head over to neotypewatches.com and have a look before 75 other watch nerds discover it and exhaust your favorite one.
