The nominations were submitted, the debates raged, the votes were tallied, and we have chosen The Time Bum Microband Watch of The Year.
As always, we followed these rules:
- We only considered microbrand watches, which we defined as having a small number of full-time employees, outsourcing most of its production, using movements not produced in-house, and conducting sales primarily online with no more than a limited brick-and-mortar presence. So, big boys like Seiko are clearly out, but we also excluded pretty sizable independents like Oris, Sinn, and Christopher Ward.
- The watches had to be available in 2024. Watches that could be ordered but not delivered by year-end did not qualify.
- We could only nominate watches we had actually handled. This one is always difficult because there are so many great watches out there and so little time to play with them all, but you don’t know a watch until you have it in your hand.
- The watches could not cost more than $3,000. This one was easy. All our nominees came in under $2,000 – one was under $50.
- Each contributor could choose no more than three favorites.
And so, after careful consideration, The Time Bum panel of experts is proud to announce…
The 2024 Time Bum Microbrand Watch of The Year: Prevail Onward Future Field Watch
We reached a verdict on this one in record time. Truth be told, we had one dissenter who thought it was awful, and I understand that reaction because the Onward Future Field Watch is, frankly, a little weird, but that is precisely why the rest of us absolutely loved it. Mike described it as “a full rethinking of a watch type.” DC called it “a little ingot of badass.” In his review, Matt Kessler-Clearly praised its practicality, innovative style, and the fact that Prevail chose to market this field watch in terms of veterans’ health and not combat machismo. I think it is a testament to designer Matt Smith-Johnson’s talent that he has created a watch that is so fresh, so polarizing, and still so functional. Best of all, this Ronda quartz-driven brute sells for just $275. The Prevail Onward is a bold debut from a new brand that has absolutely aced its assignment. Bravo!
The Rest of The Best of 2024
The following watches did not claim the top spot, but they all won a special place in our hearts. We present them in alphabetical order.
Beaubleau Seconde Française
French microbrand Beaubleau released the achingly beautiful Seconde Française in 2024, and Lauren could not resist adding it to our list. Those magnificent Copernicus-style leaf hands will grab your attention, and the enamel dial will hold your eye, but it’s the case detailing that really sets the Seconde apart. It’s an intricate, multi-level affair with alternating finishes and lovely details like its hidden crown. Beaubleu offers two limited editions, the 19.24 and the 20.24, for $1,318.
echo/neutra Rivanera
Designer Nicholas Callegaro has given us one lovely echo/neutra watch after another, establishing a signature style that elegantly updated the vintage tool watch aesthetic. Then, the brand released the Rivanera ($1,490), surprising all of us. I don’t think anyone had “titanium industrial tank watch” on their 2024 bingo card, yet that is exactly what echo/neutra delivered. We loved its understated interpretation of an Art Deco dial, the hand-winding ETA 7001 movement, and the sharp angles of its wafer-thin sandblasted case. In true microbrand fashion, it broke all the rules in the best possible way.
Farr+Swit Retro Digital Mix Tape Vol. 1
I nominated the Farr+Swit because it is fun and a little bit insane. I mean, a 35mm plastic digital inspired by tape cassettes does not sound like a winning product in a market dominated by mechanical tool watches, but Farr+Swit took the risk, and I am glad for it. As I said in my review, the Retro Digital Mix Tape Vol. 1 perfectly captures the late 80s zeitgeist, right down to its clear resin strap and Memorex-inspired case, and for the very vintage price of just $34.99. It’s pure joy.
Nodus Contrail GMT
Matt nominated the Nodus Contrail GMT ($825), and it is easy to see why. This third-generation Contrail refined an already excellent model, slimming and refining the case while adding the all-important mechanical GMT function. As Matt described it, “[t]he Contrail III is visually stimulating yet unobtrusive to wear, making it a lovely travel companion,” adding that it was “one of the few watches I’ve reviewed that left me with a lingering sense of loss after returning it.”
Serica 6190 M.S.L. Field Chronometer
DC put the 1,090€ Serica 6190 “Mean Sea Level” field watch on his 2024 shortlist. Like others in the brand’s collection, the 6190 embodies a clean, modern approach to traditional military watch design. The deep enamel dial, tall sapphire crystal, bombé lugs, and striking combination of surface finishes give this sporty watch a surprisingly sophisticated air. In 2024, only 500 were produced with Serica’s signature dial layout, but more are available for 2025 delivery, and you can get the 990€ Denali, California, or Commando dial variants now.
Tsao Baltimore Natty Boh Moon
Nate suggested the Tsao Baltimore Natty Boh Moon. He is a sucker for watches that evoke a particular place, and Tsao Baltimore is one the best. Everything the brand produces is infused with the essence of Maryland’s Charm City. Case in point, 2024’s Natty Boh Moon. Made in collaboration with National Bohemian beer, the watch puts the iconic mustashioed mascot onto the moonphase complication of a Swiss quartz, decorates it in a variety of home team colors, and boxes it up in a replica beer can. It’s a clever and fun slice of Americana. The 40mm, launched at the District Time show in March, was limited to 410 units and quickly sold out, but a new 34mm version is available now.
Vaer DS2 Meridian Diver
Vaer has mastered the art of the everyday tool watch. A quick browse through their site reveals a healthy collection of automatic, quartz, and solar, ranging from under $200 to just knocking on the door of $1000. Here at The Time Bum, we gravitate to the lower end of that range, where we find gems like the 39mm DS2 Meridian quartz that Nate recommended. It may not break new ground stylistically, but it is a handsome, beautifully finished, 150m dive watch outfitted with sapphire, Super-LumiNova, and an FKM strap for just $210 (currently on sale for $186). This is the kind of high-value product at which microbrands excel. We were pleased to see Vaer deliver once again.
