Texture. That is what first attracted me to the Monbrey MB2 Kenkyū. With its sharp peaks and deep valleys, that fabulous dial pattern was so striking that I overlooked the rest of the package. It wasn’t until I spent quality time photographing it that I realized how the Monbrey team applied the same fastidious detailing to every aspect of the watch.
The MB2 is Hong Kong’s Monbrey’s second release (the first being the logically named MB1). It displays an impressive level of sophistication not often found in young brands. I evaluated a prototype model that was 99% of what customers can expect from the production model and was quite impressed.
The Monbrey’s brushed stainless steel case sports flashes of bright polishing on the angular lugs’ chamfers, the outer edge of the fixed bezel, and the fluted crown. The same motif carries through the 20mm H-link bracelet. Each segment is beveled on all sides, and each of those edges is polished. The result stops well short of dress watch fanciness. Indeed, there is more than a hint of functional aesthetic in the brushed surfaces and large screw-down crown, just treated to the right degree of shimmer to highlight the details and enliven the design.
This is a comfortably mid-sized watch, measuring 39.5mm wide, 45mm long, and 9.5mm tall, not including the 2.3mm anti-reflective and fingerprint-resistant sapphire box crystal. It is sealed for 100m water resistance and shielded for 4800 A/m. Is the MB2 a tool watch? Maybe. You certainly can use it like one, but like a Rolex Milgauss, it looks pretty sharp with a suit too. Many tool watches fall into neat categories like military, field, dive, or pilot. The Monbrey is not as easy to pin down. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve owned plenty of each type and loved them all for different reasons. Still, it’s refreshing to see watchs like the MB2 that take an unexpected tack.
That brings us around to the element that first struck me, the dial. They call the pattern “Kenkyū” for the era of the first Japanese shogunate, and it draws inspiration from samurai weaponry and armour. It wasn’t the merely the geometric pattern that grabbed my attention, was its unusually sharp definition. I suspect that is a function of the material. Monbrey has used cut Mother of Pearl, and while that has appeared on watch faces before, it is usually in a state that shows its natural iridencense, not cut and colored as it is in the MB2 series. My review sample was Dark Olive Green with gold. Other variants include Indigo Purple, Starry Blue, Fumé Brown, Ice Blue, Black, and Blossom Pink.
For the markers and hands, the brand applied the same deft combination of brushing and polishing it used on the case and bracelet, yielding an equally delightful result. Brushed tops juxiposed with hints of reflection on the faceted markers and hands create a hints of movement. It adds something quite special without being fussy. Very nicely done.
The only caveat I’d add its that the polished logo often disappears against the dark dial. This is more of a problem for watch photography than it is in daily use. It is also an issue Monbrey has already solved for the production units.
Like any serious multipurpose watch, the Monbrey MB2 wears lume; in this case, a creamy Swiss Super-LumiNova. It is not immediately obvious against the gold hands and markers, in fact, you will likely only notice the chapter ring pips, yet it is perfectly effective when the lights go down.
At its heart is a Miyota 9039, the slim, reliable, and smooth (28.8k bph) automatic beloved by many a microbrand. Its an excellent choice that Monbrey makes more appealing by regulating it to +/- 8 seconds per day.
Short links give the bracelet excellent articulation and the brand pledges to improve this for production by modifying the first link. The endlinks fit snugly into their lugs and secure with quick-release pins.
The low-profile, dive-style clasp is signed and dual-finished. Most notably, it also incorporates a push-button microadjustment glide.
If the bracelet is not your preference, the watch also comes with an Epsom-patterned leather strap fitted with quick-relase pins and a signed buckle. Monbrey says the production strap will be softer. Truth be told, I had no complaints.
On my 6.75″ wrist, the Monbrey MB2 cut a handsome figure, offering classic proportions and a hint of athleticism exhibited by the tall crown and crystal. I would happily wear this watch to all but most formal or most arduous events. It’s not that the watch couldn’t handle the latter, I just wouldn’t want to risk scratching or scuffing such a pretty piece.
The Monbrey MB2 is available for order now at monbrey.com for $649. I’d say that is right on target for for this watch and while I hate the cliché “punches above its weight,” well, I suppose I just said it. You won’t begrudge a penny spent on the MB2.
