Hemel has made some smart moves in its time, but perhaps none better than launching the HF Air Support collection. Inspired by the iconic Dodane and Breuget Type 20 and 21 watches originally issued to mid-twentieth century French military pilots, these chronographs have proven immensely popular, prompting several incarnations, each with its own charm. For today’s review, I have a Hemel Air Wing.
Like others in the series, the Air Wing sports a 40mm wide, 47mm long polished stainless steel case that is just under 13.5mm thick. Its signed, push-pull crown is good for a useful 100m water resistance, an uncommon treat for a traditional pilot’s watch.
As you can see, the double-domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal hews closely to the bezel.
A 20mm lug gap keeps the proportions in check, even as the chronograph buttons and large crown bulk it up. The result is appropriately sporting, but not at all oversized.
I’m pleased to see that the crown pays service to the bigger crowns often found on pilot’s watches without going overboard. Those original Type 20s wore a variety of crowns depending on the manufacturer (Type 20 was a French military designation). My favorites had broad, flat crowns that offered excellent grip without protruding any farther than necessary, much like that of the Air Wing.
Driving the Air Wing is a SeaGull ST19 hand-winding chronograph movement. This Swiss design was originally the Venus 175 until it was sold to SeaGull in 1960. With a tweak here and an upgrade there, it has inhibited dozens of brands’ watches. At last count, I own four, each from a brand on a different continent. I’ve found them to be accurate and robust, but best of all, they are among the prettiest units you are likely to see in a sub-$1,000 or, in this case, a sub-$500 watch. It makes the sapphire display window worthwhile.
While Hemel did not stray far from the classic Tyle 20 layout, the brand has still managed to turn out several distinct dials, all of which reflect the original aesthetic in thier own way. The Air Wing is distinguished by its large subdials that displace the 9 and 3 without cutting into any of the other numbers, and the darts at the remaining odd-numbered hour positions.
The matte black dial wears white printing and beige C3 Super-LumiNova. I know some watch nerds take issue with “fauxtina,” but I am not one of them. I love it, and not because it looks old but because the mellow combination of black and tan is just so damn satisfying. A dash of red on the 60 and the first 5 minutes of the 30-minute register lend an appealing, low-key pop of color that fits the overall military theme.
The latest releases in the Air Support collection feature 120-click, unidirectional bezels. Their glossy ceramic inserts are engraved, lumed, and look lovely. Bezel action is crisp, and although the texturing is on the smooth side, it provides just enough grip to do the trick.
Lume performance is exactly what you would expect from C3: bright and long-lasting. Everything lights up except the subdial markers. I must award extra points for the illuminated minute index.
Hemel has given us top-quality straps on the entire HFT20 range. The Air Wing gets lightly padded, oiled leather with linen-colored stitching, quick-release spring bars, and a dual-signed buckle. It’s the kind of strap that is comfortable out of the box and will doubtless improve with age and wear.
The Hemel Air Wing is a fine addition to the series. It gives up none of its design heritage while offering a period-correct movement and modern refinements. It looks fabulous doing it, and, best of all, it won’t break the bank. The Air Wing is available now for $499.99 at hemelwatches.com. If you are looking for a Type 20-style watch that you can wear every day, I strongly suggest you consider the Hemel.
