Every so often, The Time Bum casts his cheapskate budget to the wind and reviews a conventional luxury watch. Today, I have a lovely, vintage-inspired piece from Omega‘s Heritage collection, the Seamaster 300 (ref. 234.30.41.21.01.001). Still, I can’t help but sniff out a deal. The Omega Seamaster 300 lists for $7,100 new; however, the watch I reviewed is a 2023 model currently for sale for $5,495 at Bob’s Watches, the trusted luxury watch dealer in Newport Beach, California. Like all of their inventory, it has been tested and serviced. This particular watch is in excellent condition, showing only the slightest signs of use.
Omega released the first Seamaster 300 in 1957 as a tool for professional and recreational divers. If you own one of those early watches, I applaud your good fortune and taste, but I would wager that you are not taking it to the bottom of a coral reef. True, the 300 was named for its water resistance back in the day, but even assuming a factory-perfect example with recent maintenance, I’d feel more comfortable with the vault-like security of its modern counterpart. This 2023 model, with its screw-down crown and caseback, high-tech seals, and modern manufacturing tolerances, is tested to 300m water resistance. It also benefits from anti-magnetic shielding, an AR-coated sapphire crystal, and bright Super-LumiNova. There is no reason why you could not take it to the murky depths.
Of course, the dive watches in my collection spend 99% of their lives on dry land for two excellent reasons: 1) I have no interest in diving, and 2) it is a scientific fact that the deeper you descend into the ocean, the farther you are from people who admire fine watches. It’s true. Drop down to about 600 feet, look around, and show your wrist to the fish. They do not care, which is a waste because the Seamaster 300 is an absolute stunner.
The stainless steel case is 41mm wide, 48mm long, and just a touch under 14mm thick. Although this may sound thick, it includes the gloriously tall domed sapphire crystal. Thanks to a bright polish, tapered lugs, and gentle chamfers on its upper edges, the watch appears remarkably lean. A comparatively large crown also aids this perception.
I am often surprised at how many watch manufacturers, both large and small, fit uninspiring, cylindrical crowns to their divers. Such is not the case here. The Seamaster 300’s crown flares outward from its base, creating a more appealing shape while offering an easy grip. The deep fluting and raised logo don’t hurt it, either. As expected, it operates smoothly, screwing down for a secure seal.
Omega offers the watch in several colorways on an assortment of leather straps, as well as the lovely three-link bracelet featured here. It cuts a slim profile, befitting that sleek case. Brushed center links provide a pleasant contrast to the otherwise polished surfaces. It is 21mm at the fitted ends, tapering to 16mm at the clasp, itself brushed and burly.
Inside is a push-button release, allowing about a half-link’s worth of adjustment range via a sliding extension. It’s not something you would likely operate on the fly, but it’s handy for getting the right fit.
The Seamaster 300’s heart is an Omega Co-axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, a 38 jewel, 3.5 hz (25.2k bph) automatic with twin barrels, bi-directional winding, and an outstanding 60-hour power reserve. You can set the hour hand independently for quick time-zone jumps. With those Geneva stripes radiating from the center, it is also uncommonly attractive for tool watch movement and well worth the view through the exhibition caseback.
While we are back here, notice the engraving on the lugs. One of them also bears the serial number, which I obliterated from the photos lest it end up on a fake. Trust me, it was there.
The dial maintains the original layout and dart-shaped hour markers in a sandwich form. Beige Super-LumiNova glows through the cut-aways and is also present on the hands and the aluminum bezel insert’s engraved markers. I do appreciate lumed bezels, and this one allows a firm grip as it smartly snaps through its unidirectional rotation. Some may decry the tan-on-black scheme as “fauxtina,” but I love the warmth of that combination.
The Seamaster’s faceted dauphine and broad-arrow hands are a classic Omega look, harkening back to the 1950s. They are faceted, rhodium-plated, and polished.
I had no problem wearing the 41mm 300 on my 6.75″ wrist. Given my preference for 38-40mm watches these days, I was worried it might look a bit large, but that slim arched case does a fine job of keeping the profile low while the 41mm width masks its thickness. The result is lean, comfortable, and easy to wear under a buttoned cuff.
The Omega Seamaster 300 is an outstanding watch. It has a top-flight movement, outstanding build quality, and a rich history. Better still, Omega’s modern spin on the classic layout looks amazing. Those who crave a watch that hews more closely to the 300s of old might seek out a ref. 233.30.41.21.01.001 with its printed white numbers and arrowhead second hand (Bob’s has a couple of those on hand as well), but I’d choose the sandwich dial of this 234.30.41.21.01.001
This watch is still up on the Bob’s Watches site, but it may not be for long. Visit bobswatches.com to check it out. Click here for their entire Seamaster 300 inventory.
