Sometime around 2010, I dove down the wristwatch rabbit hole and discovered an impressive number of quality microbrands. As small, independent watchmakers continued to proliferate, it became increasingly difficult to sample all the good ones, even for a rabid enthusiast like myself. Still, once a brand has piqued my interest, I can’t let it go, even if it sometimes takes me years to get around to it. Such was the case with today’s subject, the Greg Stevens Design (GSD) 5B.
Greg Stevens has been part of the watch world since 2005, when he started selling his handcrafted straps. Straps evolved into watches, and GSD became one of the most respected old-school microbrands. While I admired their clean and rugged good looks online, I never encountered one in the wild and never reached out to Greg himself for a review. Sloppy on my part, I know, but sometimes, my best ideas fall through the cracks. That changed when Watch Recon alerted me to a private seller offering a batch of GSDs at irresistible prices, and I snatched up the bronze beauty you see here.
The GSD 5B is a 300m tool watch featuring a classic Cardinal-number layout, post hands, and a paddle second hand in a large case. It measures 42mm wide and 50mm long, with a 22mm lug gap. It is 12.8mm thick, including a generously tall domed sapphire crystal. Even though the 5B’s size and material remove it from the vintage revival category, its overall design is clearly inspired by 1960s divers. I know I have been on a small-to-mid-sized watch kick lately, but I still enjoy a beefy tool watch on the weekends, particularly one that can accommodate a sturdy leather strap, and the 5B delivers on both counts.
This is not to say that the GSD is some kind of brick — far from it. The case displays a smooth arc from one drilled lug tip to the other, minimizing bulk and allowing a natural fit on even smaller wrists like mine. Its fluted crown is tucked neatly out of the way at 4 o’clock. Moreover, 12mm of case height hardly seems tall when spread over a broad surface area like this. As a result, the watch wears comfortably on my 6.75″ wrist.
The stainless steel case back is engraved with the GSD logo and the watch’s vital statistics. It hides a Sellita SW200-1 automatic, a reliable united based on the venerable ETA 2824. It’s hard to go wrong with that one.
GSD offers the model 5 in stainless steel, PVD black, and bronze cases and bezels. There are mix-and-match options too. The stainless looks rather nice with a bronze bezel, as does the bronze with the PVD insert. All have engraved markers and a lume pip. The action is firm and secure, delivering a satisfying mechanical snap as you move it through the 120-step rotation. Only the red triangle at the top is painted. You can expect the rest to darken with normal oxidation.
I have always purchased my bronze watches fresh, with nothing more than the normal “delivery patina,” the barest bit of darkening. Whether I let it ripen naturally or force it into another state depends entirely on the watch and my whims. You can get your 5B clean or pre-patinated. GSD’s patina option imparts a patchy, dark chocolate effect (likely the result of a targeted Liver of Sulfur treatment) that is burnished back to the raw bronze on the edges. It looks exceedingly grizzled, like it has spent a career plying the ocean trade routes, and the daily use has rubbed some patina away. I attempted the same effect on my Shipwreck Tuna project, and this one is even more pronounced. I love it.
[Note: After I posted, Greg let me know that it is not a Liver of Sulfur patina, but a multi-step process using an entirely different chemical. I’d tell you more, but that would ruin the mystery.]
Like the case, the dial also shows a bit of artificial aging in the form of Old Radium Super-LumiNova. I am a big fan of the black and tan combination, and it looks particularly appropriate when paired with the weathered case. The gold handset matches nicely with the case’s warm tones, leaving the minute track as the only white element. One of my favorite GSD signature elements is dial text. Glance quickly, and you’ll miss it. A closer look under the right light reveals the logo and model name embossed into the black surface. It’s subtly cool.
As I mentioned, Greg Stevens started as a strap maker. When you buy a watch from him, you get to choose your strap of choice. There are no bad options. American Horween Dublin? Swedish Gustav? English Bridle leather? Vintage ammo pouch? Take your pick. Given that my watch was purchased used, I have no idea what leather I’ve got on this one, but it is a lovely nut brown with gold stitching that has worn in beautifully. The GSD-signed bronze buckle is icing on the cake.
I’ve been wearing the GSD-5B on and off for a few months now. I’m pleased to say that it has lived up to all my expectations. While I’m sorry I took so long to buy one, it was absolutely worth the wait.
GSD is taking orders for the models 5A and 5B now for $695, including the aforementioned strap, which can be purchased separately for $175. If you are interested, I recommend you not dally for several years. Buy one and enjoy it now.
For more information or to buy your own, visit gregstevensdesign.com.
