Undone simply cannot sit still. The Hong Kong brand is constantly inventing and reinventing its watches in exciting new ways. Most recently, Undone’s founder, Michael Young, has taken a fresh look at the Urban Killy Chronograph and made it new by making it old.
I reviewed the original Killy back in 2017 and loved its slim profile and vintage style. Its brushed and polished stainless steel case measures 40mm wide, 47.6mm long, and just 12mm thick, including the lovely boxed K1 mineral crystal. Inside, beats a Seiko VK61 MechaQuartz Hybrid Flyback Chronograph that mates a reliable quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph module for a smooth sweep hand and crisp snap-back on reset.
The Killy’s cream-colored dial already looks a bit aged, both in its color and its Art Deco typography. In true vintage chronographs style, the Killy uses fine-lined indexes and tiny type to pack a large amount of information into its limited space. Color coding (dark blue tachymetre index, red telemetre index, and a black seconds track forming the innermost ring) goes a long way to keep it all legible. The Undone brand name is tucked out of the way at the outer edge of the dial at 6 o’clock.
Young took this old favorite and went it two steps farther, by weathering the dial, and then fitting a strap made from antique Japanese Katazome cloth. Many watch designers have added elements to evoke that sense of age to their dials. We’ve seen crackle finishes, fading, and various “tropic” effects, but few have gone as far as the patina on the Designers Draft Edition. Its spotted, darkened surface has just the right amount of grunge to appear authentic without looking grubby. I dig it.
The strap of the watch is made from the 150-year-old Katazome fabric, showcasing traditional Japanese design and techniques. It is the same type of indigo-dyed fabric used in the Undone x Simple Union Bronze Basecamp. I loved it there and I love it here. It is one thing to mimic an antique but the Katazome cloth is the real deal. Katazome is a Japanese method of dyeing fabrics using a resist paste applied through a stencil. The stencils used are called Katagami, a technique that originated in the 8th century. Every Katazome fabric strap will be different, giving the watch a look that is one of a kind.
The Undone Killy Designer’s Draft Edition is available for $395 direct from Undone.
