Astor+Banks Fortitude

Chicago outfit Astor+Banks is coming up on 10 years in business, and they’ve certainly left their mark on the watch world. Released from 2012 to 2016, their first three models were undoubtedly well-designed (I still yearn for a Pilotmatic…or do I want the AB1405?), but I’d argue it wasn’t until they released the Sea Ranger in 2019 that they really made a splash. The Sea Ranger began a new chapter for the brand, broadening the brand’s appeal with a design that was at once relatable and distinct.

The A+B Fortitude collection is a continuation of that new chapter, borrowing as it does many of the elements that made the Sea Ranger a hit. Shedding the dive bezel and shifting some dimensions, the Fortitude is presented with the Sea Ranger’s slim midcase construction and comes in five exceptional dials.

I wasn’t expecting to get all five models for review. Frankly, I had mixed feelings, as capturing all of them would be a bit more time-consuming, but it did mean I got to experience each dial and both the strap and bracelet. Upon opening the trove, I was immediately pulled in by the dials’ textures, the handset variation, and the bracelet’s finishing and short links,

The flat-topped fixed bezel almost meets the crystal perfectly, save for the sliver of a beveled edge to the crystal, which creates some distortion without impacting legibility. I’ve seen crystals where the doming or distortion actually affects a watch’s readability, so the care taken here is appreciated. You’ll see throughout the review how on the Fortitude it creates some fun viewing angles.

I really like how the polished chamfer extends along the watch’s entirety and maintains its width for that length. One issue I found was the dome on the polished crown created slight grip issues, meaning I had to really pinch it to set the watch.

The Achilles heel for the Fortitude–as it was for the Sea Ranger–is the proportions of the case parts relative to the total height. Typically, you’ll have a midcase that constitutes most of a case’s height, with the caseback and bezel making up the rest (typically in that order, by size). But here, the midcase is super slim with little to no downturn (note how the lug holes are about centered to the height of the midcase). And this is clearly intentional: look at the flange that comes down from the midcase to meet the caseback–that’s designed. As such, the watch appears to wear higher than its dimensions would indicate, partly due to the slight shadow cast by the elevated midcase.

Let’s talk about this great dial, which is offered in five variants, all with their own quirks.

The applied markers have great, thick surrounds that vary depending on the dial and match the hands–keep an eye on them in the dial shots below.

The groove partitioning the Fortitude’s center dial from the periphery is an entirely unnecessary and wonderful touch. But, as you’ll see throughout the review, the hour hand terminates exactly at the circle (more attention to detail: the minutes and seconds hands terminate at the exterior edge of the markers).

The beveled edge to the date window and how it lines up with the circle is perfect.

Understandably, the mother of pearl dial available on the A+B Fortitude replaces the groove with a printed blue line and forgoes the beveled date window. The way the nacreous dial shifts with the light to reveal its mottling is undoubtedly beautiful.

Sharing a blue handset and surrounds with the MOP dial, the white features some of the texture of the best dial options but lacks the oomph of some of the other dials.

The blue is my least very dial. It’s got very little going on texture-wise and is dark enough to sometimes play black. Plus, the polished hands are kind of run-of-the-mill.

The above and below dials are my two favorites, meaning they are the best. Why do I love them so? The dial texture of the sand, the freshness of the mint green, and perhaps most of all, the gunmetal grey hands and surrounds.

Color matching date wheels with texture dials can be tricky, as it’s not possible to match the dial texture, just the color. I’ve seen some dials where this is a huge issue, and the juxtaposition is jarring. That wasn’t the case in my experience with the A+B Fortitude, though. The colors are matched so well that the missing texture is far less of an issue.

Lume is strong and even on the Fortitude. There’s no discernible difference between the brightness or longevity of the hands and markers. Chalk it up to using the highest grade of Super-LumiNova™ available.

Tucked behind a pleasantly restrained caseback is the Miyota 9015. Look it up if you need to.

Ignore the case here. Look at the bracelet. I call these Y-links, and the shortness of the links make the bracelet wrap neatly around the wrist. I mentioned the midcase issues above (and will discuss them below), but they are hugely mitigated by how well the bracelets fits the wrist.

The other benefit of short links is sizing by the links only can be a bit more precise–and easy since the links are fastened with screw pins. But the Astor+Banks-branded clasp has three micro-adjustments holes, just in case.

Okay. So when we get the suede straps on, the midcase issues are exaggerated (each watch comes with the bracelet and a suede strap, except the sand dial, which includes an army green canvas strap). The straps are a bit too thick and stiff at the lug end, and as such, don’t conform to the wrist, which this case design desperately needs. It’s a shame because I rather like the straps; I just can’t abide by “break-in” time.

But one of the joys of watches is swapping straps. And if you’ve got a nice, pliable strap, the watch can wear as well on a strap as it does on a bracelet. I would not, however, recommend that NATO life–the watch will be a tower on your wrist.

The Astor+Banks Fortitude is another in a long line of great watches from the Chicago brand. There’s a lot to like, and case construction notwithstanding, this is a watch that has the ability to wear quite well–just be careful when you wear it off the bracelet. The watch is a great deal–perhaps underpriced–and with five dials to choose from, there’s surely something for everyone. To find the one that’s right for you and make it yours, head over to the A+B website.