Last year, Jubileon released their first watch, the Superellipse. I really liked its clean layout, distinctive case, and affordable price. Next month, they will launch the Superellipse Chronograph, a burly tool watch that takes the original model’s shape in a new direction. I tried a prototype for this review.
A “superellipse” is a closed curve forming a box shape, not unlike the Chronograph’s bezel. That signature feature is shared with the original watch, as is the blunt cushion case and short, angular lugs, but while the cases look similar at first blush, they are quite different.
At 42mm across, 51mm long, and 15mm thick, the Chronograph is substantially larger, and that is before you factor in the crowns and guards at 9 and 3 o’clock, which bring the overall width to a whopping 49mm. That kind of east-west crown and guard set up does have the benefit of symmetry, but it is a visually heavy arrangement.
Finish options for the stainless steel case will be IP Vintage Gunmetal or Vintage Rose Gold. I received a Gunmetal sample and a buckle in each color, both showing a dark, mottled surface and burnished edges. The effect is certainly eye-catching, and the gold, in particular, may be an appealing option for those who like the look of patina but cannot wear an oxidizing metal such as brass or bronze. That said, I’d prefer the combination of brushing and polishing that made the first watch so attractive.
The Jubileon’s tool watch looks are backed up by functionality as well. It boasts a 100m water resistance rating and AR-coated, flat sapphire crystals front and rear. Both of the crowns screw down and are signed with the Jubileon logo. They pop well clear of the guards and operate smoothly. You may notice that the prototype’s engraving lacks the “SG” tucked into the “J.” This will be corrected before production.
The case back echoes the bezel in both its shape and the four screws that secure it; however, it is finished with vertical brushing and a polished edge. While I understand the decision not to IP coat the back of the watch, that bright chamfer seems out of place.
The exhibition window offers a view of the Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic, and its custom rotor. This view will be improved as production watches will have a larger opening. The engraved text will grow a size as well. This 25 jewel, 28.8k bph movement features 12 hours, 30 minutes, and small seconds registers, day and date disks, the ETACHRON regulator system, and a firm, satisfying “click” upon engagement.
While I may have my misgivings about the style of the case, I love the dial. Jubileon will offer it in Faded Gray, White-on-Blue, and Blue-on-White like the sample. Its three large registers and broad indicators dominate the layout, providing excellent legibility. A porthole disk for the small seconds dial will be an option. The blue primary hands are a proper length, and I like the contrast between the pencil minute hand the fat wedge of an hour hand. The red sweep hand is a welcome pop that coordinates nicely with the red number at the top of each subdial. Dial text and logo are sensibly sized and positioned around the 3 o’clock date window and the outer edge of the 6 o’clock position. BGW9 lume on the hands and markers glows strongly at night.
The Chronograph’s left crown sets the silver-on-blue internal 12-hour bezel, allowing you to track a second time zone. On the prototype, the numbers don’t quite square up with the hour markers because the serifed “1” throws off the alignment. In production, the numbers will be sans-serif and dead-on.
Buyers will get two 22mm straps with their Chronograph: leather backed denim with white stitching and ribbed, padded leather with white tribal stitching. Thick-framed buckles are matched to the cases and signed although you might miss it on the prototype. Production buckles will have deeper, clearer engraving.
Both straps are a good fit for the rugged style of the watch, but neither was a good fit for me. Even cinched to the last adjustment hole, I could not keep the heavy head positioned on top of my smallish 6.75” wrist. That really summed up my relationship with the watch, the Superellipse Chronograph was just too much for me in more ways than one. I’m much better suited to the smaller, more reserved Superellipse 3-hand.
Jubileon has already launched a brushed/polished panda-dial special edition on the Watcha Facebook group and will take orders for the regular production run through jubileon.myshopify.com starting in mid-March. The pre-order price will be $750 including shipping, and only 50 of each dial and case variant will be made. If they sell fewer than 50% in the initial launch, they will start a Kickstarter campaign in mid-April with a $799 starting price, $30 shipping, and only the denim strap. Full retail is expected to be $1,199.
For more information or to stay posted on the launch, visit Jubileon on the web, Facebook, and Instagram. ⬩
